May 15, 2025

Kinaskan Lake to Dease Lake

I made it to my hotel room in Dease Lake, B.C. this evening around 6 PM and plan to take a rest day tomorrow. It’s been two weeks since I left Seattle/Victoria and a rest is in order. The last three days provided much more excitement and stimulation than I thought was possible. I know I must have struggled here and there, but the amazing parts of the ride have drummed out those momentary feelings of agony because I can’t really remember feeling any misery.

When I left Kinaskan Lake this morning, it was overcast and cold. As I packed my gear into my panniers, the campsite location kept my mind occupied. A Barrow’s Goldeneye mating pair kept flying back and forth near the shoreline where my tent was pitched and their whistling wings pierced the cold air. Ruby-crowned kinglets sang (incessantly) and off in the distance a loon announced its presence. When you are one of only a few people in an area hundreds of square miles in size, it’s a humbling experience to hear these sounds and realize they all traveled much, much farther than me to get here!

My goal for the day was to get to Dease Lake, 78 miles up the road, about six miles farther than I rode yesterday. I wasn’t sure this was possible, but given my fitness discovery yesterday, who knows? Iskut, a Tahltan First Nations village, was 25 miles away and would be my first rest stop. From there I would pace myself and monitor how I felt because I had to ascend another 4,500’ of elevation.

Passing through Iskut, I was impressed with the modernization of the village. It certainly didn’t look like this 45 years ago! (Sorry, no photos.) The little store at that time was a dilapidated log cabin and was not very inviting. The homes I remember looked like pictures in books from the turn of the century. Today, the homes are modern and surrounded by recreational equipment and power lines! I stopped at the new store (and gas station!) where I bought a large coffee and a package of mint Oreos. Yes, the fuel of bicycle champions. I didn’t have food that would provide me with the instant calorie intake I knew I would need after I crossed the Stikine River bridge. After talking with a few locals, I headed off knowing I had 53 miles to go and more elevation to gain than I cared to think about.

Not far from Iskut, I started my descent to the Stikine River. It felt good … until I encountered the road resurfacing project where the surface changed from pavement to gravel! Yikes. I managed to get through that mess without any issues (nice adrenalin rush, though) and down to the bridge. On the other side, I crammed more calories into my gullet in preparation for a torturous climb. Miles-wise, the climb wasn’t that far, about 15 miles, but the elevation started at 2,200’ to just over 4,000’ with quite a few 10% sections. Also, it’s still winter above 3,000’.

This is when everything started to blur together. I took in my surroundings as best as I could (those Ruby-crowned kinglets!!!), and kept an eye out for bears and caribou. I just focused and pedaled. My GPS track told me at about eight miles from Dease Lake, the road would drop into town at a 6% grade. I crossed an amazing pass about six or seven miles long and was counting my blessings: favorable wind, I was warm, the bike was purring, my legs felt strong, and I knew I was going to make it. I made it to Gnat Pass, the high point of the plateau, and quickly descended the grade. Oh my. The adrenaline kicked in again, especially when I looked down to see I was moving at 40 MPH. I don’t recall how long the descent took, maybe 30 minutes. From beginning to end, it was the most exhilarating ride in my life. I even had a few Oreos left. The rewards of a hotel room, dinner, and FaceTime with Kathy made the accomplishment all the better.

When I leave Dease Lake on Saturday, I’ll be out of cell/WiFi range until Wednesday. You probably won’t find anything here until next Thursday. I plan to arrive in Whitehorse on Friday where I will rendezvous with Kathy during Memorial Day weekend. Enjoy your Victoria Day weekend, eh.

Looking back at Kinaskan Lake to the south.

Athabaskan-speaking Tahltan First Nations folks in Iskut.

Not the typical borrow pit aluminum cans and plastic trash.

Stikine River. If you ever read John Muir’s book, Stikeen, now you know where the name came from.

Peering back into the Spatsizi Plateau and Stikine River Provincial Parks.

If you look closely, you can make out the BC Rail grade. Tracks were never laid.

Just outside of Dease Lake is the Arctic Divide.

Today's ride: 78 miles (126 km)
Total: 793 miles (1,276 km)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	5
Comment on this entry	Comment	1

Lou JurcikLots to think about here. But the main thing in my head as I type is, how did you manage to stop yourself mid-hill, going 40 mph in order to take that picture? Pwerhaps I am wrong, that that aint the hill, but believing it is, I am stunned by your willpower to cut off the momentum in order to preserve the moment. Big props.
Reply to this comment
3 weeks ago