June 1, 2025 - Back to Alaska: Forty-five Years Later - CycleBlaze

June 1, 2025

Lakeview Campground to Tok, AK

One month on the road, literally and figuratively. Today the wind blew and the rollers stacked up and the pedaling was interminable. The landscape didn’t change much either. Forest and wetlands and road construction. 

At the first traffic stop for construction, there were about a dozen cars waiting for the pilot car (a pick up truck, actually). I worked my way to the front of the queue where the flagger told me I would have to put my bicycle in the pick up bed and ride in the cab. This would be the first of two rides that covered about five miles each. I’ll spare you those conversations, except for one.

The flagger at the second traffic stop grew up in Wasilla and graduated from Boise State before she completed law school at the University of Idaho’s Boise campus. Before I put my bike in the pilot car, I asked her what practice area she intended to enter. “Construction” she replied. Of course, I thought. The drivers and flaggers were all women and earning Davis-Bacon wages. I didn’t ask what they could earn in one season. They were working seven days expecting the season to go into November, and my guess is they were making at least $50 an hour. You can do the math. 

While struggling to crest a small hill, I heard a falcon cry out. I can’t tell the difference between falcon calls, but I had to stop and look anyway. Flying above me were a nesting pair of Peregrine falcons. They weren’t very happy with me stopping to check out their homestead, but I sure enjoyed following them as they flew 360º around me numerous times. I’ve never before seen them so close. They are exceptionally beautiful birds. 

One more gold mine story. I am a member of the Northern Alaska Environmental Center so I knew about the Manh Choh mine before I passed the mine turn-off entering Tok. It is a hard rock gold mine and requires specialized trucking equipment to carry the ore to the owner’s Fairbanks mill, 240 miles away:

  • Highway tractors pulling two covered side-dump trailers that were purpose built to maximize safety and efficiency;
  • Total vehicle length is 95,’ similar to double fuel and double cargo trailers used in Alaska today;
  • Payload of about 50 tons and total gross vehicle weight of 82.5 tons per vehicle.

As you might imagine, this project was controversial, but if something pencils out in the black, it will receive a regulatory “go” from Juneau and Washington, D.C. For more in-depth reporting on these issues, check out Nathanial Herz’s website, Northern Journal, and subscribe. He does amazing work. 

That’s it for today. I’m taking one rest day in Tok before the last four legs to Fairbanks where I will arrive on Friday.  Next post will be Thursday or Friday.

Two seasons in Alaska: winter and road construction
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Nice to be able to go to the front of the line!
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Dust from wind on Tanana River bar
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Tanana River - upriver
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Tanana River - downriver
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Manh Choh regulatory permits. That’s all. Quite the contrast to B.C.’s promotional approach to announcing the entrance to their mines
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Trapper Kurt’s digs
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John Hemmenwhere's your horse?
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1 week ago
Kurt Sahl@John … in the window
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1 week ago

Today's ride: 60 miles (97 km)
Total: 1,569 miles (2,525 km)

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Mike AylingGold mining - with the current price transporting ore 240 miles to a mill is obviously still viable.
I was a bean counter for a mining company in Australia in the nineteen nineties and AFAICR we needed a grade of 8 grams a ton to make money for underground mining. with a then gold price of US$500 ton. Recovery methods have improved since then. Today's gold price is six times that.
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1 week ago
Stephen KerrHi Kurt-

I've been following your progress all the way; reads like an adventure novel! I hope the last part of your trip goes well and that you return in good form.

It's been especially interesting for me to see how much development has taken place in BC and AK since the time I was there (1969-71). Convenience stores, indeed!

When you're back in Seattle, let me know -- it would be great to get together some time and chat!

Steve Kerr
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1 week ago
Kurt SahlTo Mike Ayling@ Mike … and there’s no end in sight.
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1 week ago
Kurt SahlTo Stephen Kerr@ Steve … I’ve been surprised by both the growth and the resource extraction industries. I guess it makes sense that one goes hand-in-hand with the other.

Looking forward to a meet up!
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1 week ago