Things explained: Eceabat

August 29, 2012

WE GOT THINGS clearer today. The question of beer, for instance. You'll remember I said there never was any in village bars, that there was plenty of tea and coffee and cola but never amber nectar. Well, outside the tiny communities we've been passing through, there's been plenty. So either there is some sort of licensing law, as in many countries, that forbids the humblest establishments to sell alcohol or it's the choice of the owner and local community. You will have been worrying, I know, but you can sleep easily now you know beer has crossed my lips.

The other question was why there are so many soldiers. To an extent that is explained by the discovery that Turkey still has national service, that all sons spend two years in the forces from the age of 20.

'That is partly because of our neighbours,' we were told by a man who said his name was too complicated to remember (it was Mehemet, in fact, which didn't seem difficult at all) and suggested we call him Bill.

I thought back to our crossing from Greece and remembered frictions between the countries over the years, and suggested that was what he meant. He smiled tolerantly, acknowledging history but saying 'Greece, that is no problem. But think of our other neighbours.'

When he listed them - Georgia, Armenia, Iran, Syria... - I began to see he and Turkey had a point.

Anyway, we spent the afternoon today touring the Australian and Kiwi sections of the Gallipoli landings in the second year of the first world war. There were plenty of other invasion areas but the tours cover just this section because the interest is from Down Under. In fact almost as many French soldiers died as Australians and New Zealanders put together, and as many Britons again. But Gallipoli barely figures in French or British history, particularly French because in 1914-18 more French soldiers died than all the other Allied nations put together and the Dardenelles as a result barely count.

A doctor we met said French cemeteries were more moving than the Australian. I couldn't say. We didn't see them. But our reaction after visiting numerous Aussie sites is that they lacked gravitas and sadness. That makes it sound as though there is competition between cemeteries and the dead, which is foolish. But see the Commonwealth cemeteries of the Western Front or the German or American sites from D-Day and you'll see what I mean.

For us, learning about Gallipoli was valuable. As I said, the disaster is barely known in Britain or France. Here, on the other hand, the date of victory is a moment in the founding of modern Turkey and, as Bill pointed out, you can barely move for streets, schools and parks named after it.

It's fascinating how history differs even between those who took part in it.

Nor surprisingly, casualties were high trying to gain ground. This promontory is known as the Sphinx

The view from Walker's Ridge towards the British landing points

Ataturk's 1934 tribute to the dead of Gallipoli

Simpson - an Australian hero. He found a donkey and they ferried injured soldiers from the battlefield until he was killed 3 1/2 weeks later

The Australian Memorial, with "Lone Pine". The battlefield had only one. This is a direct descendant. And the Turkish memorial, not far away

Brighton beach, complete with Turkish defences and sunshades

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