Today started bright and sunny. I couldn't get going early though, because I had to wait for the hostel receptionist to appear inorder to pay. I think she just happen to be a long term guest. The owners a "Garcia" family, according to a welcome notice on the wall, who're away and left her in charge. Eventually gone ten, the dog pushes the door in to her room and goes in and she appears soon after, so I can settle up.

I continue steeply downhill from Pumamarca, the remaining three kilometres of route 52, to route 9, which follows a deep north-south valley called "Quebrada Humahuaca" and turn right into a strong headwind blowing up the valley, which slows me to a crawl, worrying because there is no paved shoulder and although the traffic isn't what could be called heavy, its fast as apposed to my almost stopped pace and there's lots of buses that skim pass without giving me much space.

I meet a Canadian cyclist with country flag fluttering on the back of his bike, flying the other way with strong tailwind. We exchange waves as he keeps going not wanting to stop for the usual touring cyclist meeting and chat.

Farther thick fog-like cloud moves in and fills the valley, whereupon the wind dies, but the misery of riding with headwind is soon replaced by riding in drizzly rain, which intensifies to steady rain. The road dirty wet sheen and oncoming vehicles beaming full headlights to illuminate gloomy grey low visibility.

Soon the road starts a long descent, making pedaling to keep warm redundant and I hold on shivering and cursing the weather, thinking why am I here. The most miserable day I can remember in a long time ensues as the road keeps on going downhill. At least if I were on the flat I could pedal and generate some core heat. My feet numb, my fingers too. My thick goretex ski gloves wet through.

The rain eventually eases and with it visibility improves approaching the city of San Salvador de Jujuy, where they're building a dual-carriageway. On the new unopened as yet carriageway on the left, I see a Basque Country cycle touring couple stopped at the side. They shake from a bag nuts into the palm of my hand and give me chocolate, which warms the spirit. They tell me they're on their way to San Pedro de Atacama, and I tell them to expect strong headwind, saying, it isn't impossible, but its going to be very tough going from east to west.

Route 9 bypasses the city, then I take the turning for old road 9, which goes through the hills to Salta. I lunch late (16.30) in a private cemetery-garden of rest, then continue to the town of El Carmen, the other side of which I find a reasonable good free campsite in through an open gateway to the margin of a field.

Heart

0

Comment

0

Link

Log in to comment or reply