Fin Pavimento: near Ville Menguales to near Puyuhuapi.

March 11, 2016

The sign out by the road from where I've camped has "Puyuhuapi 89km", so that's where I aim to reach today.

This morning I can report being kept awake most of the night by headache. Which I think is due to not drinking enough water yesterday, leading to dehydration. And for a reason I was out of the tent early before light and saw all the rain cloud had gone leaving a clear sky full of stars, meaning yesterday afternoon's wind and drop of rain, wasn't the weather breaking. The fine weather should continue.

I am on the road at quarter past nine, though it really feels no later than eight o'clock. The sun hasn't risen over the mountains and the valley is extremely cold in the shade.

Looking back on leaving where I camped in to the right of the bridge.

I start the day in warm tights and fleece and soon I've to stop and don the thick winter gloves too, standing in a gateway blowing on my cupped hands regaining circulation in numb fingers.

The way passes through a claustrophobic narrow gorge with vertical mountainside closing in either side. There's a river below on the left, Rio Cisnes. The valley thick temperate rainforest with gigantic rhubarb plants flanking the roadside, their single leaves big enough to crouch underneath to shelter from rain, over which red and purple bell bloom honeysuckle hang from the hedge. A place the settlers of the last century couldn't turn into cattle pasture.

The sun eventually shines in about ten, warming the day up and the road carries on to a tee-junction: the right turn to Puerto Cisnes; left, route 7 north, where immediately the tarmac ends and at the same time the road goes steeply up. On crossing off the smooth tarmac I'm instantly reduced to walking pace negotiating a way round loose scattered stones, which if it weren't for, the surface most of the way up isn't too bad. The stones the size of golf balls and roll underneath the wheel as such, making it hard to retain balance and stay upright on steeper sections. Its slow going and it starts to look like I won't be reaching Puyuhuapi today. The sign at the beginning of this unpaved (ripio) section has "Puyuhuapi 57km"

After a tee-junction where I turn right, the tarmac ends and there's a long climb.

When the road levels out after a three kilometres steep incline, the road continues upon a ledge, but there is a wider bit, where there's a big heap of ancient tree trunks, perhaps there since the road was built back in the 70s. I lean the bike on the trunks, sit down and lunch on the last of three day old bread with sardines, which in my hungry state doesn't taste too bad.

Shortly after setting off again, there is an extremely steep brake squealing switch-back descent. There is a grading machine working on the surface on the way down, leaving it a bit loose on the sharp bend. The road is so narrow in places its a wonder two vehicles meeting can pass each other. Then I cross a bridge and there's a queue of cars and trucks. The road ahead temporarily closed for road works. The sign has "obras entre 13.00 y 17.00. The road on will be closed until five o'clock and it is now three. So I sit down in the sunshine prepared for a two hour wait, passing the time reading and looking at the map.

When five eventually come round and the workmen open the road, there's still quite a way downhill to go, though a wider road straight along the valley, with a constant cloud of dust from the passing traffic previously held up. Then when they'd all passed, the traffic held up at the bottom end of the road works come in the other direction in another blinding cloud of dust.

The way further levels out into a glacier river valley, the road hanging onto a precipitous edge above the gravel-bars and river below. I'm determent to make up time so plan on riding until dark. Further approaching nightfall, Lago Puyuhuapi opens up on the left. There is now vertical rock face on the right and it falls away down to the lake on the left. Any level spot is thick with vegetation.

Though by lucky chance I come to a layby on the lakeside with clumps of bushes enclosing part of the level hard core surface, which had previously been used for camping I would guest. I pitch the tent and settle down for the evening just as its getting dark.

Glacier (melt-water) river. I've often wondered why they've such swift strong currants.

Luckily found good free campsite in an area where the ground is near enough all vertical.

Today's ride: 85 km (53 miles)
Total: 6,669 km (4,141 miles)

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