October 9, 2021
To Nauders
If I thought the lower Vinschgau was beautiful yesterday, the upper reaches of the valley were even more spectacular today –mountains, lakes, bigger climbs, more fun. And the cherry on the top was the weather – another day of sunshine and brilliant blue sky.
The major goal today was the climb over Reschen Pass, the last big challenge of the tour. I felt ready for the challenge and was excited about the ride ahead. In fact, I was so excited I couldn’t wait to get started – rolling out of Laces/Latsch I came upon a railway crossing in the middle of an apple orchard. The gate was down, but there was no train in sight. I waited and waited and waited, and still no trail. Recalling a similar incidence earlier in the trip, I finally decided to duck under the guard rail and cross the tracks – after looking carefully in both directions, of course. I made it safely across, with about a minute to spare! It seems good fortune is smiling on me today!
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The morning route closely followed the Adige River, zig-zagging from one side of the river to the other through orchards and woodlands. There were lots of folks out enjoying the splendid day – bikers, hikers, dog-walkers and families. Even though I had some work ahead of me, I took time to enjoy the day and soak everything in.
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After a short climb through the woods, I came to a small clearing overlooking rows and rows of fruit trees stretching across the valley. In the clearing was a striking marble sculpture of a woman that, I later learned, was part an international art project “Pillars of Freedom.” The project includes 112 memorials, each of which “embodies an individual approach to how a life in freedom can function in a social context. "I AM THE FREEDOM?"
The piece in the clearing is by David Horstmann, entitled “Backbone”. It seemed a fitting metaphor for today’s ride, and for the tour as a whole.
Fall is apple harvest time and the valley was full of ripening apples, crates of apples, and trucks hauling apples - red apples, yellow apples, green apples. I happened upon a trailside information poster describing the importance and impact and quality of apples in. According to the poster “The Fruit of Temptation”, 5 billion apples are harvested from 18,000 hectares in South Tyrol each year: effectively one in every eight apples in Europe come from this region.
After cycling through miles after mile of apples, I myself was tempted to snatch a ripe one off a tree. I was thrilled, therefore, when I came upon a table offering free apples – yours for the taking. I picked out a red Gala and rode off in the sunshine, munching away on the freshest apple I’d ever eaten, thinking life is as sweet as this apple.
I soon came to Prato allo Stelvio and headed north, despite chiding from Scott Anderson to make a dash up Stelvio Pass on my way by. After a few miles I reached Glurns, where the climb to Reschen pass begins in earnest - about 6.5 miles with average 6% grade, reaching over 18%. There are no switchbacks, only stretches of steep interspersed with stretches of not so steep. The latter does give your legs a break, but so does stopping to rest, which I did on more than one occasion. There was only one short stretch where I had to walk, for about 25 meters just before Burgisio. The steepest part is actually just past Burgisio, but I used the mooing of nearby cows as my cheering section to urge me on.
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When I reached Haidersee I knew the major climbing was behind me –I relished the moment and the beauty of my surroundings. The route meandered up and down the west side of the lake, the shady side. It was getting past three and there was a definite chill in the air, especially on the downhills. I’d worked up a sweat during the climb, layering down to just my cycle jersey. Now it was time to layer back up.
The Haidersee is the little brother to the larger Reschensee, which together form the lake plateau triangle between Austria, Switzerland and Germany. The Reschensee is a large man-lake that is renowned for the Caron Tower, a submerged 14th century church steeple that is the only visible remains of the town of Caron, which was flooded during creation of the lake.
I was a bit shocked when I arrived at the south end of Reschensee to see how low the water level was. In fact, when I got to the north end of the lake, it was clear that the iconic steeple was no longer submerged. Apparently, the lake was drained in April for needed repairs on the hydroelectric plant. Interestingly, the drainage revealed remnants of the old town, including stone steps and walls. The lake is scheduled to be refilled, and the Tower of Curon will once again be submerged. Though I might be disappointed that I did not my photo-op of the submerged steeple, I was able to see a part of the old Caron. And that is something special.
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It was really getting cold by the time I left Reschensee, and I reminded myself that I was high in the Alps on a fall afternoon. I had to finally stop and put on my thermal pants and rain jacket for the final push up over Reschen Pass and down into Nauders. I was a bit disappointed that there was no marker denoting the pass, nor was there any indication of the border crossing. Before I knew it, I’d left Italy and was in Austria – on a wonderful downhill run into Nauders and my home for the night.
It had been one of the best days on a bike, ever.
Today's ride: 39 miles (63 km)
Total: 810 miles (1,304 km)
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