September 29, 2021
To Ferrara
Cycling my age in miles - wait, I'm not THAT old!
It is approximately 115 miles by bike from Vicenza to Bologna, at least by my RWGPS route. I had originally planned to divide the distance equally between two days, with Rovigo as the approximate mid-point. Two considerations led me to front load the miles and cycle the 75+ miles to Ferrara today – one being the rave reviews the city had received from Scott and Rachael Anderson. Secondly, and more importantly, it would allow me to arrive in Bologna earlier in the day and more refreshed – a consideration I believed my friends/hosts deserved. So, I was down for breakfast by seven and wheels were rolling by 8:30.
The route took me south on a nicely paved cycle path flanked by farm fields and, further off, the Veneto Hills. Though most of the crops had been harvested, there was the occasional explosion of yellow and green from soy bean fields that needed a bit more drying out. It was just before Ponticelli that I “met” the first of many canalways I would follow today – usually on well-paved roads parallel to the canal.
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I stopped in Agugliaro for an espresso, pastry, and panini to go – it was a delightful little caffé where the proprietor took great joy in finding the Google translation for maple syrup. Continuing south, I passed through Etse at noon, the church bells must have tolled for at least ten minutes or more. School was just letting out when I pulled into Granze, where I enjoyed my panini listening the peals of joy that can only come from children just released from the classroom. Then it was on toward Rovigo, where a nicely marked series of bike trails guided me around the east side of the city. It was one of many, many times that day I marveled at the extraordinary bike infrastructure found almost everywhere in Europe.
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2 years ago
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As I neared the Po River, the network of canals increased and there were more frequent bridge crossings - some short and sweet while others were a bit more daunting. I reached the Po River Just south of Polesella and crossed over to the south bank, leaving Veneto and entering the Emilia Romagana region. The route along the south bank of the Po follows the Destra Po Cycleway, a 93 km section of Eurovelo 8 that runs from Ferrara to Gorino, on the Adriatic Coast. It was an idyllic stretch along an excellent road surface atop a flood embankment, with wind whistling through the rows of popular trees that separated me from the river. The sun was dropping in the west, and the light was beginning to take on the quiet beauty of the gloaming. I’d forgotten how much I love this time of day and I was feeling energized – despite the fact that I’d already done 65 miles. Then... I hit a roadblock. Literally.
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The barricade appeared after only a few short miles on the Destra Po. I briefly considered going around, but reasoned that it was a cycle way, not a road, and so the sign was likely directed at folks like me. Also, it was getting late in the day and I definitely did not want face a backtrack. I cycled down off the embankment, came to an intersection, and opted to go right toward Ruina. There I found a clearly marked detour sign with a large arrow pointing the way. I followed the Destra Po detour signs, zig-zagging my way south and getting closer to Ferrara.
Ferrara is a walled city, and I was rather excited about the possibility of passing through walled gates. However, RWGPS routed me through a park on north side of town, beyond the wall. I eventually made my way into the city, around the Este castle and to the front door of my guest house. No one was there, so I called the listed number and was told where to find my key. Fine – what about my bike. Just leave it on the street, we’ll be there in an hour – no, I think not. I opened the door and came face to face with a stone staircase leading two flights up to reception. Up we went, but it took a couple of trips.
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I was pretty spent from the long day, capped off by hauling Vivien George up two flights of stairs. But all was good in the end - an amazing plate of pumkin cappellacci and a tiramisu that was good, but ranked #3 in my Best Tiramisu in Italy quest. I'll sleep well tonight and should have a pretty easy ride to Bologna tomorrow
Today's ride: 79 miles (127 km)
Total: 553 miles (890 km)
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2 years ago