In Great Barrington - The Road to Rome, Part One: America - CycleBlaze

August 5, 2021

In Great Barrington

Well, we remembered why we booked ourselves for two nights in Great Barrington; but we don’t care to divulge our reasons just yet.  Perhaps tomorrow.  Anyway, we’re here for two days now; and after yesterday’s experience cycling here neither of us is too jazzed about taking a discretionary bike ride on these shoulderless, narrow roads.  We decide that the town is best seen on foot.

We’re staying at Days Inn which claims to offer breakfast, so we walk down to check it out.  There’s hardly anything there but yogurt and coffee, but Rachael finds it to be enough to supplement the stash she’s always carrying along anyway.  It doesn’t meet my criteria though; and since alternatives are available I get my first workout of the day by walking about three blocks to GB Eats for a sausage and egg spread that suits me better.

On the way there I take a few first shots of the town.  Once  the traffic jam is gone, the small historical center is quite attractive and inviting.

Main Street, Great Barrington.
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Railroad Street, Great Barrington.
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Railroad Street, Great Barrington.
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The former Saint James Episcopal Church, recently restored and rededicated as Saint James Place, a state-of-the-art cultural center: https://saintjamesplace.net/. It looks like it would be a wonderful place to take in a live music performance.
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More restoration underway next to Saint James Place. It looks like it will be a work of art when it’s done.
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On Main Street.
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Looks like a busker showing up for his morning shift.
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A red truck for Kelly, who has a thing for them. This one’s even for sale, Kelly!
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Bill ShaneyfeltAnd it's a Ford, seems to be her favorite...
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2 years ago
The Great Barrington Town Hall, as you see.
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As I head back to the room after my small workout, Rachael embarks on her own - an eight mile hike to a small network of trails north of town.  She comes back later with what I’d describe as a so-so report - too many miles on busy Main Street, but some attractive trails once she got there.  And egrets!

I’ve had my morning workout. It’s Rocky’s turn.
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Jen RahnI imagine Rachael hopping off of the roof of that car and onto the street to continue walking.

Interesting angle and perspective!
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2 years ago
At an undisclosed location north of Great Barrington.
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Same spot.
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Egrets!
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After I’ve rested up from my exertions and feel ready for more I walk across town to a pizza restaurant for an afternoon beer, at the only place open within walking distance that serves one before dinner time.  The traffic on Main Street is if anything even worse than yesterday, and the air feels unhealthy as I walk past an unbroken mile of stalled, idling cars belching exhaust.

Noisy too, but not so noisy for me to miss hearing a familiar sound overhead.  Looking around for its source, I’m startled to see a red tailed hawk perched on the lip of a brick chimney, repeatedly looking up and keening at the sky.

I’ve never seen one perched on the roof of a house before, and staying put even with so much commotion below.
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Bill ShaneyfeltRaptors are so variable they give me fits! That said, this might be a red-tailed hawk since it is the only one I found with a white chest.
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2 years ago
Scott AndersonTo Bill ShaneyfeltThat’s what lead me to this conclusion too, since he wouldn’t fly off and prove the case. I’m not so sure now though. Unless he’s an accidental the only other candidate would be a red shouldered. After listening to the sounds of the two on Allaboutbirds, he really sounded more like the latter.
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At the pizza place I ask about the nonstop traffic.  I learn that it’s worse today because there’s a car show in town this afternoon, but that in fact it’s always nearly this bad in the summer.  There are some things about Great Barrington that are definitely attractive, but this would drive me to insanity.

On the way back the traffic is even worse still.  Cars are moving at maybe 2 mph?  It can’t be any faster than that because I easily overtake them at my normal, not so fast walking speed.  I probably pass 40 of them walking back to the room.

The hawk is still there as I pass by again, almost an hour since I passed him the first time.  He’s moved from the chimney to the back end of the house, but he’s still looking up and crying out.  I suspect he’s lost his mate.

Still holding out hope?
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The car show is in full swing when I walk through downtown.  Both sides of the street are lined with one shiny classic after another, its hood up and guys bending over looking in.  Loud speakers blare out a steady stream of Beach Boys hits.  Really, this is the best car show I remember seeing.

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Graham FinchThose Brits get everywhere...
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2 years ago
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Porchedelic!
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Plum perfect!
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The man loves his ‘Vette.
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Jen RahnWould love to see a photo of you dusting off your Bike Friday with one of those!
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For dinner Rachael and I walk back to Main Street once more, to a Thai restaurant that sounds appealing.  On a whim we take the GBO, who never gets taken out for a meal.  We’re the only diners in the place and we score a window seat where we can sit and watch the action just beyond the glass.  The scene has changed since I walked by earlier - the street has been barricaded and is the domain for a few hours of the strollers and gawkers.  Occasionally a police car will drive through, slowly piloting a bus or truck that presumably it too large to manage the detour route.

There’s a different look on Main Street this evening.
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The GBO is disappointed and pouting. He got carded, and I forgot to bring along his ID. I guess I’ll have to drink his share myself.
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Jen RahnHe does look more Blue than usual.
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2 years ago
Ron SuchanekHe's got to stop that pouting.
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Scott AndersonTo Ron SuchanekYes. You have to wonder about his upbringing. Perhaps he had an7nhappy childhood.
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2 years ago

Afterwards we take the long way back to our room, on a trail alongside the Housatonic River that Rachael discovered.  It’s a fine walk past Rocky outcrops beneath splendid hardwoods, and a great time of day to be out; but we can’t really stop to enjoy the scenery for too long because the insects are swarming around it.

On the river walk.
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On the river walk.
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On the river walk.
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Searles Castle, built in the 1880’s as a French-style chateau. Seven stories, 40 rooms, a dungeon basement, 36 fireplaces, 54,000 sq ft. I’m not sure if there are a swimming pool, sauna or bowling alley.
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All in all, a surprisingly rich and satisfying day and a nice break from the bikes.  But wait, there’s more!  Not long after dark we hear a loud bang, look out our window, and see fireworks exploding in the sky.  For the next fifteen minutes we stand outside our room and watch the best fireworks display we’ve seen in several years.  Great job, Great Barrington!

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Emily SharpGood to see you continuing to dodge the gnarly weather and make your way to this Part 1 conclusion.

I've never had much desire to tour in the eastern states but always thought VT and NH would be worth a visit (but maybe for backpacking instead of cycling). While it's unlikely I'll ever get there in this life, your pics of VT have confirmed my thoughts.

Wishing you safe travels and hoping your good luck at avoiding disasters and Covid closures continues. That delta variant is a real game-changer. All the best for Part 2!
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2 years ago
Graham FinchHow about the moon?
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2 years ago
Scott AndersonTo Emily SharpThanks, Emily. We’ve really had much better luck with weather on this tour than it’s reasonable to hope for. We haven’t had a rainout day since Ithaca, two weeks ago; and often the weather has been quite pleasant.

You’re right about Vermont and New Hampshire and Vermont, I think - they both look better experienced on foot than a road bike. Off pavement though it looks like there is probably much wonderful cycling to be had, I’d you don’t mind hills and hardship. Team Anderson is way too soft!

Thanks again for following along!
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2 years ago