Frizon to Corre

September 6, 2022

Back on the level, on the Canal des Vosges.

Frizon to Corre

Back on the level, on the Canal des Vosges

September 6 Tuesday 80kms

Very early start as our hosts have commitments. We breakfast on bowls of black coffee and Veronique’s bread and mirabelle jam. We have packed early so we’re soon ready to head down the hill. There’s a shower of rain just before we leave, but it amounts to nothing. We farewell Veronique, Regis having already left for school. It’s been a wonderful stay and as always, we’ve learned so much more of local issues and seen how people live in the Vosges.

After our magnificent effort of getting up such a series of hills, I hadn’t expected the return to the trail to be so straightforward, but in fact, it is, of course, mainly downhill and before long we’re headed south again.

The path is about to enter the Canal des Vosges which links the Moselle and Saone and has 93 locks! We pass another former textiles mill. It’s a massive building, now empty, and is also accompanied by an apartment block which provided accommodation for workers.

At Epinal the route diverges with one branch continuing to follow the Moselle to its source. We make sure that we are continuing on La Voie Bleue. From Epinal the trail becomes greener and more closely enclosed by trees.

At some stage we meet our German friends again. We had expected to see them again sometime as they’re on the same route. We take a break from the trail at a small village and cycle up to the boulangerie. It’s a hive of industry with the baker turning out dozens of loaves from an oven radiating heat. We settle for a raisin escargot a pomme turnover and a mini quiche Lorraine. Outside we sit on the shade and drink the orange boissons and consume our goodies.

The trail now goes into a seemingly endless series of locks that are part of the Canal des Vosges. The initial part of the canal is dry, as if someone has pulled the plug but as we progress, the canal begins to look more as it should, though there are no boats.

The canal continues on its picturesque route through a woodland landscape where trees come right to the waters edge. It must be relaxing on a longboat, although the proliferation of locks would ensure plenty of commitment to action. The part of the canal without water looks remarkably free from detritus- have they had a cleanup perhaps? The information boards are enhanced by quirky paintings by an artist called Claire Arthur.

At Fontenoy le Chateau we stop for lunch beside one of the many ports of plaisance we’ve encountered. It’s peaceful with a number of boats moored but not able to use the canal.

The surface of the trail is so good that a regular 17 to 20kph is easily doable, and this ensures that we make good progress. The forêt closes in though and this gives the canal a mysterious air.

By mid afternoon we find ourselves in Corre eyeing an old house with shutters and a bit of old world charm, unlike our host who is welcoming but business like. The price is very reasonable and the room, despite being something of a vision in dark brown, is spacious and comfortable, with two massive armchairs, into one of which I promptly collapse. We’re both tired, having covered a considerable distance. A quick ride to the local Intermarché sorts dinner and then it’s an early night drifting off to the bong of the bells of the local church. They bong regularly throughout the night. Every hour in fact.

…. Yet stands the Church clock at ten to three? And is there honey still for tea?

Today's ride: 80 km (50 miles)
Total: 727 km (451 miles)

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