Carcassonne to Minerve - Midtsommer - Mediterranean to the Fjords - CycleBlaze

May 1, 2023

Carcassonne to Minerve

A last minute change of plan led to a fabulous day.

We had planned to go north from Carcassonne towards the mountains; starting with an easy ride to Caune-Minervois where we could drop the luggage and then explore with light bikes, but just before leaving Steve checked his email and there was an answer from le Relais Chantovent in Minerve.  From Bill Buford's book Dirt, I had learned about Les Meillieurs Restaurants, a designation for establishments that make everything from scratch using local ingredients.  The Chantovent was one that looked good, could be on our way and offered a reasonably priced forfait demi pension (room, supper and breakfast) so I had sent off an inquiry.  The answer was that they had space tonight, were closed Tuesday and were booked for the rest of the week.  A quick yes and we had a table for tonight.  

New Plan:  Minerve is 54km with a big climb at the end and, this being France, reception was closed 3 to 5:30pm. Could we make it before 3pm?  After three nights in the tent, the allure of parking the bikes, a hot shower and a nap in an indoor bed before supper was motivating.

The first 15km we followed the Canal to Tarbes, a charming town with a pretty waterfront, where we tried in vain to buy bread on May 1, a public holiday.  Then we turned on to the D206 which took us through the rural France we love.  This is the Minervois wine district where vineyards stretch in every direction with the occasional field of wheat flowing in the wind (it actually changes colour as it moves).  We saw signs for Chateaux with wine tasting but, unlike Bordeaux where the castles are in plain sight, all we saw were impressive gates and the start of a winding lane leading to somewhere we might venture if we had more time.  But not today.

The hills were mostly down, the wind was at our backs and Minerve by 3pm was looking easy as we averaged 20km/h.  But then Steve checked the routing and yes, that big ridge ahead would have to be climbed.  At 2:45 Ann was dragging and there was still lots of hill ahead so Steve said adieu and made haste. At 2:59 when Steve was almost at the top and probably only 10 minutes away; he called, they picked up with a pas de souci, we are here when you arrive.  Steve relaxed and enjoyed the coast down into Minerve, one of les plus beaux villages de France, and checked in.  Ann arrived soon after.  The village is indeed beautiful. 

Supper was amazing.  The dining room was lively and full, a glass wall looked out over the gorge, each dish had been assembled to please the palate and the eye, the wine came from vineyards on the edge of town, the service was efficient...

Yes, this was a fabulous day.

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Open sky day, the wind was blowing the rain clouds far from us.
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Watching the time as we raced by.
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Looking back at the valley we’ve come through from near the top of the 5km climb before our descent into Minerve.
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Pont de Minerve
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The village is situated on top of the gorge of the River Cesse in a naturally strong defensive position. Near the village the river disappears underground in a large, naturally carved tunnel.
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Limestone cliffs
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It was well worth the effort to be here. Feeling very content after a delicious meal and looking forward to a comfy bed to fall into tonight.
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Today's ride: 54 km (34 miles)
Total: 227 km (141 miles)

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Comment on this entry Comment 8
Kirsten KaarsooIt sounds like a great change of plan.
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10 months ago
Scott AndersonI’m glad to see this and have my curiosity satisfied. I’ve penciled Minerve into plans a couple of different times but we’ve never made it there for one reason or another. It definitely looks worth the detour.
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10 months ago
Rachael AndersonGlad you made it!
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10 months ago
ann and steve maher-wearyTo Scott AndersonGreat spot for an overnight. And the first kms on the D10 out of town this morning we’re awesome.
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10 months ago
ann and steve maher-wearyTo Kirsten KaarsooI checked your blog to see if you might be passing through but you are farther north.
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10 months ago
Susan CarpenterKudos on the pivot and grabbing the moment. And thanks for putting the town and restaurant my radar
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10 months ago
Rich FrasierGood choice! It's really pretty countryside up there, and Minerve is a pretty little village. I'm going to have to check out that restaurant!
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10 months ago
Kelly MaherI opened your blog for mom and dad the other day, showed them your pictures and where you were, they were very impressed!
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10 months ago