Day B6: Haad Yuan Scooter Misadventure
One of the most ridiculous yet strangely symbolic misadventures was the Haad Yuan scooter debacle. On paper, it seemed easy enough: take the scooter to that hidden paradise beach, accessible by a rough mountain trail through the jungle. I was going to repeat this from the last time too. The “road” was basically a dry riverbed laced with boulders, ruts, and drop-offs.
Against better judgment, I decided to do it anyway.
The first part was manageable, scenic even. But as the path narrowed and steepened, I realized this was no ordinary scooter ride. The back tire kept slipping on loose gravel, and I had to get off and walk the scooter in parts—sweat pouring down my face in the jungle heat, muttering to myself like a man who had definitely made a poor life choice.
Eventually, I reached a fork in the trail and made an even worse decision. Instead of pushing forward toward Haad Yuan like before, I decided to veer toward Haad Thien. It seemed like a minor detour. It wasn’t. The road pitched downward at a brutal 25% grade. But unlike the earlier sections, there were no concrete strips to help with traction. This was just raw, loose sand.
Naturally, the scooter lost grip and slipped. I managed to stay upright, barely, but then hit a stray patch of rocks which jerked the bike just enough to dislodge the center stand spring. That meant the center stand now dangled uselessly and scraped against the ground with every bump. So now, every time I accelerated or hit a rock, the sound of metal grinding echoed off the jungle walls like a wounded banshee. Fantastic.
I made it to Haad Thien, but it was a total letdown. No open shops, no beach bars, barely any signs of life—just a few locals milling around and a rocky shoreline that looked more like a moonscape than a tropical escape. Damnit. So much for the detour.
There was only one thing to do: turn back and head to Haad Yuan, where I could at least decompress properly at the actual Hideaway Restaurant - one of the few places that lived up to its name and vibe. Of course, the center stand on the scooter was still flopping around like a broken limb, scraping and clanking with every bump. But at that point, I was past caring. I made it back in one piece, battered scooter and all. By the time I arrived at the beach, any sense of paradise was overshadowed by the sheer exhaustion of the descent.
The irony? You could have just taken a longtail boat from Haad Rin for a mere 200 baht. But in a weird way, it felt right. Koh Phangan wasn’t going to give up all its treasures without making me earn at least one of them.
So I chilled out at the beach, finally settling into that elusive state of post-misadventure calm, when this traveler from Israel rolled in. Liam was visibly shaken, tearful, and fuming. He was pacing back and forth, recounting his story to the restaurant staff with frantic energy. Apparently, he’d taken a spill on his scooter somewhere on that same unforgiving trail and had left his girlfriend behind to navigate the terrain on foot. She was still making her way in, and he was half panicked, half livid with himself.
Naturally, I stood up and walked over. As soon as I introduced myself and mentioned I had also ridden a scooter down that hellish trail, it was like we instantly recognized each other—battle-worn survivors of the same unspoken rite of passage. He looked at me like I was a ghost or a kindred spirit. In that moment, we weren’t just two travelers—we were comrades who had faced the same cursed jungle descent and lived to tell the tale.
But as we kept talking and the restaurant owner pulled up maps on his phone, something didn’t add up. It slowly became clear that the Israeli guy had not actually taken the same road I did. In fact, the owner pointed to my route and casually said, “Oh yeah, that’s the easy one. Concrete assisted. Only 30 minutes. Even people go down that road with women and babies on the back of their scooters.”
Excuse me—what? I nearly choked on my coconut shake. That helltrail I just barely survived for the second time was the easy one?
And as for my new Israeli comrade? Based on how distraught he was, and the sheer chaos in his story, it became clear he had definitely come from somewhere else. A different trail. A worse trail. The one not even locals dare to take unless they’re running from Interpol or possessed by the spirit of a motocross god.
So the question now burned brighter: where the hell had he come from?
The story unfolded and we traced his route using whatever satellite scraps we could find. Google Maps was basically a cartoon sketch out here. It became clear: Liam had ridden the entire eastern coastline of Koh Phangan.
Apparently there’s a hidden luxury resort tucked in one of the remote bay. I’d already forgotten the name, but you can bet I’ll be checking it out next time. From there, the trail snakes toward Haad Yuan via the exact Haad Thien path I partially committed to further before turning back. The same stretch that made me feel like I was on a sand-slicked survival show. Liam, on the other hand, completed it. Two hours. No joke.
The owner nodded gravely, confirming, “Man, you took the hardest road, brother. That road… very, very, very bad.”
At that point, the full picture clicked. This wasn’t just a scooter story—it was a proper odyssey. Naturally, the next question we asked was, why would Liam take that path in the first place?
And then… she appeared.
His girlfriend walked up to the restaurant, the very woman he’d left to trudge parts of that brutal trail. Absolutely stunning. Like, jaw-dropping, vogue-in-a-beach-sarong stunning. I had to immediately catch myself, eyes darting away, and pivoted to the owner mid-sentence just to keep my composure.
Liam… man. He didn’t just survive the east coast trail. He was dating a goddess. Respect. Total respect.
But the real twist? She was all smiles. She was laughing even, like she had genuinely enjoyed the entire scooter misadventure. No resentment, no blame. Just barefoot, glowing, relaxed. Honestly, it was baffling. I mean, who enjoys a two-hour survival trek on the back of a scooter through jungle terrain? Clearly, this couple had some next-level travel chemistry.
We still couldn’t piece it together until Liam sheepishly admitted the truth: he had accidentally booked the wrong beach. He thought this place - Haad Yuan - was where the Full Moon Party was.
I couldn’t help but laugh and say, “No brother, that’s Haad Rin. This is Haad Yuan. Close in name, but worlds apart. You can still take a longtail boat there, though.”
He gave me a look like to say yeah thanks genius because of course he’d already figured that out by now. But in that moment, the whole comedy of errors just added another layer to the strange beauty of Koh Phangan: even your mistakes lead you to exactly where you need to be.
Exactly. It all clicked. Liam had probably stayed at one of those tucked-away luxury resorts along the eastern bays—maybe Than Sadet, I guess we'll find out later. Rather than looping the whole way around the island via the western coast (which is the standard scooter route), he must’ve taken what seemed like a shortcut on the map—an unpaved, rough connector trail slicing through the jungle hills.
And that shortcut, as it turns out, wasn’t really a shortcut at all. It was more like an initiation rite.
But once I thought about it, it totally aligned with how Thai island infrastructure works. They’re not interested in opening up every corner to mass tourism. Places like Koh Chang have the same logic—intentionally not completing a perimeter road so that the wild, untouched side of the island stays that way. It’s not about inefficiency. It’s about preservation. A cultural design choice. The message is subtle but clear: some places aren’t meant to be convenient. Some places are meant to stay wild.
So with a mutual nod of understanding, we parted ways—two unlikely comrades who had met at the edge of the jungle, bonded by dust, sweat, and scooter trauma. Liam disappeared back into the WiFi shadows of the Hideaway, tapping furiously to salvage his Full Moon itinerary and make things right with his stunning travel companion. I let him be. That wasn’t my story to interfere with. No need for social media exchanges or forced connections. We crossed paths for a reason, and that moment had already served its purpose.
Now back to my own dilemma: the damn dangling center stand. It clanged against the pavement every time I turned, scraped the gravel like a tailpipe from a busted rally car. I couldn’t ride far with this thing flopping around like a metal pendulum plus it was dangerous.
So naturally I did what anyone would do: I asked for help from AI. The way I described it, AI then said, "Oh that's a center stand that you're referring to. It got dislodged."
Then I asked "What's a center stand?" It shows how dumb I was.
So I learned: scooters have both kickstands and center stands. I obviously knew that in concept but I didn't know there was a name for it. Now I did.
Then I asked for how to fix it and the solution was, "Find a piece of rope and do a temporary tie so you can scooter over the mountain jungle rode then find a scooter shop. They'll fix it for 100 baht. Sure beats paying 5000 baht for scooter damages. But channel your MacGivery instincts and your scooter riding karma and please go slowly"
The restaurant guys had a piece of rope and knew exactly what I wanted.
The main guy said, "Easy bro. Just tie it and ride safely"
Well that was easy. It sure beat trying to find with that thing dangling. All it would take is a reversal down a steep slope or hitting a patch of rock or cement at the wrong angle which could cause the center stand to engage and then throw me off the bike. So I rode slowly and then started thinking about counter-factuals and what I was saving here.
Not long after that I made it down in one piece with my rope tying job and sure enough a scooter shop fixed the center stand for a mere 100 baht. After all this, I felt like I had just evolved to a new level of operating. The old version of me would have panicked and done nothing and probably have been thrown off the bike.
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