Vukovar to Ilok, Croatia - London to Istanbul on a Recumbent Tandem - CycleBlaze

October 30, 2012

Vukovar to Ilok, Croatia

Staying at the 4 star Hotel Lav was interesting - a modern building with lots of glitz, yet glitches in the running of it and in some of the design. We still aren't sure why there was a large pole in the middle of our room.
Nonetheless, the breakfast buffet with hot entrees was very good.
We discovered a vibrant market across the way - food, clothing, plumbing supplies. bike parts, floral arrangements for cemeteries - it all was there. Vukovar was extremely hard hit during the war and lost many buildings. We can see evidence of much distruction,yet there are also encouraging signs of revitalization and rebuilding. There are large signs showing the support which is being given by the EU in this rebuilding process.
It was a pleasant surprise to wake up to sunshine - very cold, but no rain or snow. We set out looking forward to a better ride today.

Barry, finding a use for the pillar in our room.
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In Vukovar, there has been a decision to leave the evidence of the war visible on some of the buildings. "Lest we forget".... A sobering sight for us as we ride through this town.
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Today is Hallowe'en. It is not a special day for trick or treaters like at home. Rather, we discovered that this time is special for Croatians and Serbians as they honour their loved ones who have died by putting floral arrangements and candles on their graves. This explains the huge displays we have seen for sale along the way.
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Market in Vukovar.
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Paprika for sale at the market.
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A cold morning at the market.
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We haven't seen bicycle shops very often in Croatia - guess the market has it covered.
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A "Bike and Bett" hotel - yeah for that as it gave us a significant discount and a covered locked area for our bike. When Barry asked if the area was secure, the clerk said it was safer than the Pentagon!
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Throughout Croatia and Serbia, we have seen flowers for sale along the road, outside people's homes and in parking lots.
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Battled scarred buildings
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The water tower stands unrepaired as a reminder of the war.
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A cemetery outside of Vukovar
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Half repaired and half left with damage from the war
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We stopped for tea at the Caffe Bar in Opatovac before climbing another steep hill.Avina runs the caffe and was most gracious, serving us hot peppermint tea with honey and fresh lemon. She spoke no English, but we had fun talking to her. Her brother lives in Toronto.
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The church in Opatovac. The village is in a valley - down 8% and then up 8%, a long steep climb.
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Rooms built into the limestone cliffs along the road
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Couldn't resist this - lovely afternoon sun casting a long shadow of us on our tandem.
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Approaching Sarengrad (not Opatovac as shown in the Bikeline book) down a steep hill.
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Sarengrad
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Fall harvest is in - corn stored for feed.
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Approaching Ilok - it has been a good day of riding, but as predicted, many hills and steep curves with 8% grades
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Today's ride: 45 km (28 miles)
Total: 3,934 km (2,443 miles)

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