Pourville to St.Valery-en-Caux - London to Istanbul on a Recumbent Tandem - CycleBlaze

July 19, 2012

Pourville to St.Valery-en-Caux

Pourville to St-Valery-en Caux
Heavy winds and rain through the night. Awoke to sunshine - enjoyed watching the farm animals during breakfast. Camping in France, we have learned that toilet paper is not provided and that our Walkstools are indispensable as there are no picnic tables or places to sit.
The day has been full of beautiful vistas - stunning coastline and rural scenes. The velo route (which is part of Eurovelo 4 which connects Amsterdam to the Atlantic) chooses roads that are off the beaten path - often hillier than the main roads - and always narrow and winding through the countryside. After being lost often in Britain, we appreciate the good signage. The road is often not wide enough to allow a car to pass our bike on the road - the drivers are always patient and friendly. It probably helps that we have a Canadian flag proudly flying on the trailer flag pole and that we are riding a strange looking bike.
Shortly after leaving Pourville, we arrived in the beautiful village, Varengeville-sur-Mer. We experienced two France “firsts” - a Chateau and a Patisserie. The showcase at the Patisserie was full of exquisite savouries, breads and sweets, very reasonably priced. We treated ourselves to lunch - pizza with blue cheese and local camembert and their specialty, Tarte Normande (calvados, apple slices, butter and eggs). The attention to detail was impressive, including the gift wrapping of each item in special paper and ribbon. We had spent less than 8 euros and the clerk treated us like we were very important customers. Lunch by the side of the road on our stools was a highlight.
Villages are close together and we always know when a new village is coming up by the familiar vintage lamp posts and stone wall hugging the road. We also find interesting the Commonwealth cemeteries from both world wars on the grounds of the churches. The French certainly remember and honour the sacrifices of the allies.
Travelling in France, we are following our mantra to take our journey one day and one hill at a time. The constant head winds and hills are challenging but managable and worth it. The real reason we find it impossible to rush here is because we are constantly stopping to enjoy a vista or the charm of a village or to try to communicate (in shaky French) with a local. The locals close the shops and commerce for lunch and seem to approach life with a relaxed attitude - so when in France, do as the locals do.
W reached our destination late and found our first Municipal campground (at the top of a hill!) - Camping Etennemare, 14 euros. Very low key, excellent facilities and spacious site surrounded by cultivated hedges.

Our first glimpse of a French Chateau
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A Canadian flag at the city hall
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Our first French patisserie. What does one choose?
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Yummy
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Interesting breads
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We made our choices. Two cheese pizzas with blue cheese,etc a Normandie Tart and an apple pastry.
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All beautifully wrapped for take away
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We couldn't wait long to stop beside the road and have lunch
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Quiberville-sur-Mer
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Quiberville-sur-Mer
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Kite surfers at St.Aubin-sur-MEr
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The Alabaster Coast cycle route follows many narrow roads that are too narrow for a car to pass
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We rode many kilometers through farm land
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City hall on the left and the village school on the right
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St.-Valery-en-Caux
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Our campsite at the municipal campground in St-Valery-en-Caux
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Our site was massive with a hedge all the way around
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This is a typical French campsite, surrounnded by trimmed hedges. A nice bit of privacy. Once again, we are the only cyclists touring.
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A typical home in Normandie
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The cycle route is superb
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Today's ride: 37 km (23 miles)
Total: 107 km (66 miles)

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