Mohacs Hungary to Knezevi Vinogradi, Croatia - London to Istanbul on a Recumbent Tandem - CycleBlaze

October 28, 2012

Mohacs Hungary to Knezevi Vinogradi, Croatia

When we set out this morning from Mohacs it was cold and raining. These weather conditions continued to deteriorate for our entire ride today. At times we had very heavy rain and biting cold to deal with. We couldn't keep our feet and fingers warm even with waterproof socks and booties.We had two or three steep climbs to deal with as well.

14 km after leaving Mohacs we found ourselves at Udvar, a bordertown in Hungary. We had to go through Hungarian customs and then through Croatian customs. At the border, we were the only people going into Croatia. However, there was a huge line up of cars going into Hungary. We were puzzled why every car was from Austria. We asked a few people, but no one spoke any English. At the Croatia customs there was a cat, Sophie, curled up next to the little desk where the official stamped our visa....very low key customs crossing. As we passed the cars of Austrians, their cheers and waves encouraged us on this cold, wet entry to Croatia.

It was here that we first saw the Ruta Duna Eurovelo 6 signs. The signage in Croatia has been excellent. The Croatian roads have also been excellent. This is one of Croatia's best known wine producing areas. We saw many vineyards on today's route. As well as being an area known for wine, it is an area known for land mines. We saw many signs warning people not to venture off of the road.

By the time we reached Suza we were very cold and wet. We passed a pension in Suza, thinking that the next town would have lots of accommodation. After riding through the next town without seeing anything we started to get worried. Finally, as we were on the outskirts of Knezevi Vinogradi we saw a sign for a Soba (room available). We rang the bell on the gate and were very relieved when a man came out. Yes, he had rooms available. He started to laugh because he wasn't expecting to see bicycle tourists this late in the season and out riding on such a nasty day. He rushed back into the house to turn the heat on in the room that was available. George was so kind to us. He made us hot tea with lemon and a little rum to help take the chill out of our bones.
For dinner we walked to the Panon pool and restaurant. We had a delicious meal and return to the our zimmer for the night.

Ham and eggs and paprika for breakfast at our hotel- as well as a buffet of cold items.
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Outside our hotel room, the ferry crossed the Danube frequently for this short crossing.
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We watched this small water taxi run late through the night after the ferry finished for the day.
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Outside our hotel in Mohacs. 50 euros for an excellent room with a view of the Danube;fitness centre- sauna, hot tub; a free welcome drink and breakfast
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Through Hungary, we have noticed that the EU is giving a lot of support and financial help to support the country's growth and restructuring.
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As we were entering Croatia, we noticed the first of the signage to warn people to not enter an area due to the presence of landmines, remaining from the war.
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We are excited to be entering Croatia - a new country, language, currency and stamp for our passports.
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Having travelled in Europe pre-EU, it has been odd to travel in EU countries and never have to pass through border controls or get your passport stamped. The Croatian and Hungarian officials were very pleasant.
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Leaving Hungary was quick and easy, but we noticed that there was a huge line up of cars, all from Austria, waiting to leave Croatia.
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The first of the Croatian "blue" signage for the cycle route. It is a very cold and rainy day.
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Another stork nest. Every village seems to have one
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Welcome to Gajic
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Many houses and chickens, goats or sheep in their front yards
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We were cold and wet. The paint job on this house warmed us up
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We have been seeing large flocks of sheep wandering the country side. A shepherd with his dogs can always be seen with the sheep
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We were so cold and wet that we sought refuge at this place for a coffee and a chance to get dry again. It was a small, smoky place to drink beer, filled with locals...and in we walked in our strange looking cycling gear.
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We are in Croatian wine country.
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After climbing, we are getting ready for a steep descent.
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We had been warned that this descent on cobblestones is very slippery when wet - we'll take it slow.
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Buildings and storage areas have been built into these limestone walls.
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In the village of Batina, as we were descending on the slippery cobblestones we saw many of these rooms dug into the limestone
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Batina
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Batina
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This house was built right into the side of the hill. The Croatian/Serbian border crossing was just down the road
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Batina
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The many layers of building materials that are used to build these structures
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Corn at a small farm
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Limestone cliffs and heavy vegetation outside of Batina
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New style of architecture for us in Croatia - we see signs of renovation and rebuilding - the road is slick and provides a nice reflection from the rain.
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While riding through Suza the rain really started to come down. A new road was being built through the village
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Today's ride: 57 km (35 miles)
Total: 3,814 km (2,368 miles)

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