Esztergom to Vac: A beautiful day riding the Danube Bend - London to Istanbul on a Recumbent Tandem - CycleBlaze

October 14, 2012

Esztergom to Vac: A beautiful day riding the Danube Bend

We were looking forward to today's ride as we were able to see the bike trail from our vantage point atop the Basilica last night. We were happy to see that the cycle path was going to wind its way alongside the river.
Awoke to rain, and after enjoying breakfast in the Pension, we set out - the path didn't disappoint. We raced along the trail for 10 km to connect with the once an hour ferry crossing the Danube from Pilismart to Szob - but the ferry was not there - it was sitting on the other side, looking completely abandoned. Our first thought was that due to the lateness of the season, that the ferry wasn't running any longer. But after a while, we watched as the captain strolled down to his tug (which was chained to the side of the barge/ferry) and slowly started up the boat. I guess that the ferry now runs only when there is a need.
We were happy to see the results of Hungary's efforts to improve bike paths as we left the town of Szob. You no longer share the road with traffic - for several km, the trail is newly paved and is completely separate from the road. It follows a lovely route alongside the river and the parks.
The area we are now riding through is known as the Danube Bend and it is renowned as one of the most beautiful areas in Hungary and passes through a distance of about 20 km. The river carves through mountain sides and cliffs. We found that the misty quality of a rainy day, coupled with the fall colours, made for a memorable and beautiful day of riding.
We arrived in the historic and charming small university town of Vac mid afternoon and decided to stop here for the night. At Vac, you must once again cross the river to keep on the trail, and the next ferry wasn't for another hour.
We rode around to see the town and found a delightful surprise - Panzio Fonagy and Walter. As with so many homes in these old towns, the house sits directly on the road with little indication of what is inside. Large double doors are the entrance and the charm lies behind these doors. When they are opened, you enter a courtyard and a magical world that they have created....a lovely garden, paintings, memorabilia, dining area, and separate apartments for the guests. We are looking forward to our stay here in our 3 room apt.

Getting ready to leave our Pension in Vac. It was raining lightly, so we're optimistic that it will improve.
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Fortification and a glimpse of the Basilica as we leave Esztergom on the bike trail.
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Not sure what this is.
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No fragrance or juice...
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The trail is covered with these fruit
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It is definitely fall in Hungary.
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The terrain has changed here along the Danube with sandy beaches.
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At long last our ferry approaches.
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We rarely, if ever, see other touring cyclists along the trail now. So, we are the only passengers.
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Interesting tug/ferry
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We thought that these people were waiting for the ferry - but it turns out they were our welcoming committee. They were on a holiday (from Dresden Germany) and wanted to visit with us.
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We enjoyed visiting with them. As the day wore on,we kept encountering them along the route as they stopped for lunch, etc. I think they thought we were crazy to be biking so far,
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We appreciate this type of barrier/gate that keeps out cars. They are easy to get through and don't snag our panniers like some we encountered in France.
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Charmaine RuppoltThat is a MUCH better barrier/gate - - to keep the cars out but easy for bikes to get through. :)
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5 months ago
Immaculate new bike trai out of Szob.
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A good spot for a picnic lunch - a bit chilly but the rain has subsided.
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Old cement power poles.
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Charmaine RuppoltInteresting CEMENT power poles! It'll take a lot to break one of those down vs a wood pole!
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5 months ago
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Fall colours and the beautiful Danube Bend. On a clear day, the view would be clearer, but we thought it was lovely,
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Happened upon this game along the trail. Pulled over and watched the game. We are impressed by the skill level and passion for the sport we see in these small communities.
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The fellow in Green argued too long and was ejected with a red card.
Most entertaining to watch up close.
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Not sure what this sign says - but, we've been seeing them all day with the mileage counting down....
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If pastries and good coffee are in the vicinity, we'll find them!
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The bike path in the town of Vac.
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We will take this small ferry across the river tomorrow.
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One of the many churches in Vac.
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Breakfast in the garden - with eggs Hungarian style - delicious.
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Barry enjoying a conversation with our host at breakfast in the courtyard.
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Our apt. dining room is the roof that you can see on the right.
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Charmaine RuppoltQuite a garden setting for the place you stayed in!
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5 months ago
The breakast area.
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Another interesting piece in our sitting room filled with lovely china and crystal.
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Our apt. at the Pension had a dining room, bedroom/sitting room and bathroom. Beautiful antiques, china and artwork for us to enjoy. A unique and thoughtfully designed suite.
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A long soak in a round tub at the end of the day is something that should not be taken for granted.
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Eclectic and interesting collections at the pension.
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The garden in the courtyard - there is usually a painting on the easel, but it had been raining.
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We have enjoyed our stay here at the Pension in Vac.
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Our hosts at the Pension - trying our bike.
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A few of the people we have met have called us Crazy Canucks - so we felt drawn to this sign. Also, on the sign it mentions Duna: Danube in Germany and Austria is the Donau, here in Hungary it is called the Duna.
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Vac has a picturesque town centre with many fountains.
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The cobbled streets of Vac - down the road to our little ferry.
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Today's ride: 51 km (32 miles)
Total: 3,410 km (2,118 miles)

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