Canadian Scottish Municipal Campground to Bayeux via the Canadian Cemetery in Beny-sur-mer - London to Istanbul on a Recumbent Tandem - CycleBlaze

July 29, 2012

Canadian Scottish Municipal Campground to Bayeux via the Canadian Cemetery in Beny-sur-mer

We have enjoyed staying at the Canadian Scottish Municipal Campground for the past 2 nights (well priced at 13 euros). It is situated over the bluff from the beaches of Juno Beach. The beaches on this side of the Orne R are sandy and vast unlike the beaches E of LeHavre which were pebble beaches bordered by impressive white cliffs. Dramatically different landscapes - both enjoyed by locals en masse.
It is always interesting to get an insight into the way French people live and enjoy their leisure time. Many of the campers have been French (some Dutch) families who have come to stay for an extended time with their extended families close by.

Isabel, Joanna and Crystal - our friendly neighbours. Every conversation improves our french and leaves us feeling that we need to learn so much more.This family is from Caen and staying here for a month.We have found French people to be very friendly and relaxed in their approach to the day. The fishing in this area draws people here.
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They typically have a small trailer with an attached enormous room which houses kitchen appliances, a dining table and anything else they need. It seems so sensible as they are able to tow a small trailer with a small car and yet have all the comforts of home. Compared to the super sized North American motorhomes, these make a lot of sense. We spend a lot of time looking at their set up and marvelling at what they have. Similarly, our small tent and bike also arouses their curiosity which has lead to some wonderful conversations.

As bicycle tourers we remain very much alone on the road. We have encountered only three other fully loaded cyclists in France...and we are the only Canadians. We imagine that the Loire Valley route and the Danube will be quite different.

Butterfield and Robinson escorted cycle group - as independent travellers we imagine their travelling lives to be idyllic - however, even they have their problems....stuck in the sand. Locals know that only big tractors go on the sand - and that's how they launch their boats.
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We set off late as the weather was very blustery and the dark skies were ominous. We headed back to Berniers-sur-mer, the beach where my dad landed and are heading inland to Beny-sur-mer which is the site of the Canadian War Cemetery as well as the village which my dad's regiment successfully reached the first night following D Day.

Beny-sur-mer Canadian War Cemetery
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The cemetery was a beautiful and reflective oasis set in the midst of farm fields atop a hill. From a distance we could see the Canadian and French flags flying signalling its presence.

A small corner of the cemetery at Beny-sur-mer.
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The site of over 2000 gravestones set in perfect symmetry amongst maple trees and flowers was a somber yet peaceful place. We saw the graves of many young soldiers of 19 years of age as well as men in their 30's who had young families at home...also many The vista from the cemetery was of Juno Beach where many had lost their lives.
We carried on riding through beautiful fields of sunflowers, wheat and poppies.

Fields of sunflowers on our ride today - beautiful Calvados country.
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A village in the distance.
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A typical view of our ride today - before the rain!
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Our road was a quiet one dotted with villages every few km. The only downside was that it was Sunday and all shops were closed - no food or pastries today!
The threat of bad weather eventually materialized with heavy cold rain which felt like hail with the winds buffeting us on all sides. Bayeux was a welcome site.
We are staying in the highly recommended Municipal campsite in Bayeux and can walk into the city centre to explore. Really looking forward to seeing the Bayeux Tapestry tomorrow.

Bayeux town centre.
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As we discovered walking around town, Bayeux was relatively undamaged by the war.
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Bayeux and its intact ancient buildings is a contrast to Caen which was heavily bombed during the war.
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We look forward to exploring more in Bayeux tomorrow.
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Today's ride: 35 km (22 miles)
Total: 398 km (247 miles)

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