Day 39: Dieppe to Forges Les Eaux

October 15, 2022

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The time in France is one hour later than in England. We changed our clocks, but not our habit of setting the alarm for 6. At 6 or even 7 French time it is still dark outside. No matter, the creatures of habit we were out the door, in the dark.

We were not at all the only ones out there, however. Clearly for hours before, market vendors had been setting up and now they were ready to go. The public was ready too, such that in the dim light some vendors already had a lot of customers.

In coming to France I was planning to have a slow build up to what for us would have been (will be!) one of the big thrills of the ride. That is the market at Arles. We knew we would see the big paella woks filled with sea creatures "trying to escape", mountains of pencil thin green beans, mysterious mushrooms, cheese trucks, Moroccan or suchlike spicy stews, and so much more.

I really wasn't prepared to step out at dawn in our first town and find ourselves in the midst of a market that had everything I've listed. It was right outside our door and up and down several long streets nearby.

We had intended on finding a bakery for breakfast, but now we had only to saunter over to a quiche, crepe lady and go for it.

Grampie sized quiche, many flavours. We chose "Lorraine" (lardons and gruyere) plus one Camembert and one with asparagus.

The same ladies also had kouign aman, had to get one of those.

Things were starting to lighten up, although it was also raining. We really were put off balance by finding all this here and now, but of course we made a tour around. However I just wasn't in to my usual MO of trying to document all the wonders on offer. Here below are a few of the things, but I am still holding out for Arles.

The BBQ chicken and pork, with the little potatoes roasting in the gravy. Sooo good!

Pain aux raisins and croissant, two of the classic French bakery items. To these standards we should add pain au chocolat, eclairs, tarte aux pommes, chausson pommes, and tarte au citron. But these are the absolute basics. And when you get into the pattisserie - watch out!

I had to push past a crowd for this quick snap of bread in just one bakery. No doubt better photos of better bread will be coming!

Still cooking but smelled spicy-delicious.

This is a terrible photo, but I kept it in because it illustrates the pencil thin green beans that are normally found in France, plus the insane mountain of them. We know from experience just how hard it is to grow and pick these wonderful things.

Dodie came up sick with a bad cold today. It had started in the night, with here nose running and running. Now she had this plus general weakness, and sometimes chills. Of course there was no option but to cycle off toward our next booking, and anyway sick or not it's not possible to keep Dodie in a bed for a whole day. Dodie blames England for this cold, making it the final item thrown on the pile of things England is getting blamed for. We really hope Dodie can largely shake this by tomorrow, because tomorrow is her birthday!

We hunted in Dieppe just a bit for the start of the Route Verte cycle trail. The rain did not help, because the phone/gps though waterproof goes crazy when hit by raindrops. But pretty soon we were on to it.

Now folks, I am digging around in my vocabulary for the most superlative type descriptions one can ever have of a bike route. Let's just say there was no room for improvement, that we can not think of another trail in our experience that can beat this Avenue Verte. The surface was wide and smooth as can be, and the signage elaborate and plentiful. There were benches and picnic tables along the way, some covered shelters, map panels, signs giving the distance to coming towns, indications about where to turn to go into towns for services or sights, no untoward barriers, no traffic noise, and beautiful vistas. We rode this for the 50 straight uninterrupted kms to our hotel. Only in the last km or so did we have to do anything on road. It was just glorious. The only negative that might be applied for some riders was that it was dead flat (ok, very slight up slope). No dramatic mountain passes to climb or descend, no vistas from the stratosphere. In short, ideal Grampie territory.

There was a bit to look at, like this town going by, early in the trail.

We passed by this chateau. Today it had free admission, but we were eager to get to the hotel so Dodie could rest. Note the cycle tourists.

This rather large sign was everywhere, plus a number of other types, many rather large.

This scene is typical of the whole ride.

and here are some shots off to the side. This is Normandy, home of dairy and cheese!

At intersections/towns there was always a lot of signage, plus fences, posts, and flowers - things that made you feel welcome and like you had arrived somewhere. Then beyond, more glass smooth trail.

Map panel for this section. This is one serious trail development!

When we reached Neufchatel en Bray, we thought it would help bolster Dodie's strength to go for a bakery item. Finding the place to turn off the path and finding a bakery was easy as Pie! In the photo below it is just behind the flowers, 200 meters from the trail. Those flowers were brilliant, as was the bench beside, where we could eat our bakery treasures.

I had asked Dodie to find an eclair, but she came out one better. These are religieuses, nuns, but essentially the same as eclairs. It strikes one as disrespectful of the French to name this pastry this way, non?

Neufchatel is also the centre of production of Neufchatel cheese. It's a bit like Camembert and Brie cheese, but saltier and sharper it is said. We could have bought some at the Dieppe market, but will now have to be on the lookout for it. It is usually sold in a heart shape.

Just beyond Neufchatel we came to a small circus, that had many of its animals out in a field by the bike path. Just because it's unusual to see such a thing, we took some photos.

Maybe it's a one tent circus? Or maybe this is just circus home base.

The cow is a Normande, famous in this region. They typically have a ring around the eye.

The path continued to be super great, until we finally reached Forges Les Eaux, and jumped off it a bit to reach our hotel.

At Forges, we found "Super U", my favourite grocery, I think because or their house brand low cost chocolate bars.

After that B&B in England we are trying to direct our business to cycle friendly places, like this one.

It's Hotel de la Paix in Forges. This is their bike garage, for which they simply handed me the key.

Our room here is great, with enough space, good internet, and a desk. We hope Dodie can enjoy the route with better health tomorrow. We have also booked a room in some kind of ancient Chateau to help celebrate her birthday.

Today's ride: 60 km (37 miles)
Total: 1,570 km (975 miles)

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Suzanne GibsonGet well, Dodie!
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1 year ago

Steve Miller/GrampiesThanks Suzanne. With the Covid precautions we have not had a cold in three years. We did not bring any cold tablets on the trip. Might have to look for some tomorrow in the town.
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1 year ago

Keith AdamsGet well Dodie, and Happy Birthday a day in advance of the fact.
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1 year ago

Ben ParkeLooks like velomobile riding heaven. Flat, perfect pavement.

Get well soon, Dodie and happy almost birthday
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1 year ago

Mike AylingMany happy returns Dodie and shake off the cold.
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1 year ago

Rich FrasierHappy Birthday a day early, Dodie. Get well soon!
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1 year ago

Sue PriceHappy Birthday in advance, Dodie! I hope you feel better so you can fully enjoy your day!
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1 year ago

Keith ClassenHappy Birthday Dodie! Hope you get rid of your cold quickly.
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1 year ago