Day 41: Fussen to Eschenlohe

May 23, 2022

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The first part of our ride today replayed exactly what we did yesterday. It was still beautiful, and the cows were glad to see us, but with it now being Monday morning, the sites of yesterday's excitement were sadly deserted. One thing that was a little different was that several sets of cyclists paused to chat. The ones we talked to were all doing the Bodensee-Konigsee in one direction or the other, and all were German, having used car or train to come from their homes for the adventure. Of course topics ranged from where everyone was from to what gear we were all using to how far we were going in a day. A big one is always our DaBrim visors. Everyone wants one, and many take a photo of the name so they can later find it on the Internet.

With one couple the conversation was a little different. The lady was out in the meadow looking at a flower. She seemed to know a bit about the meadow flora, and she explained that this meadow was especially spongy, being in fact a peat bog. This was my cue to show her the photos I had taken this day, because we had been trying to document the different types of flowers that make up the meadows, which are such a notable feature here.

With one couple the topics were a little different

As we had cycled along, we spotted at least 30 meadow flower kinds. Looking at specific flowers is a different experience from taking in the whole meadow. Both are inspiring in their separate ways. Here are some of the specific flowers we spotted. (Unfortunately for a certain number our focussing was not good enough, and there are also duplicates in these collages, but we think this gives the idea of all the different flowers!)

Here too is one meadow overview. It must be great to be a cow out here, although they don't seem to like the yellow flowers.

We passed again through Halblech, which is small but quaint, and wondered again about the wooden racks, that we think must be for drying hay.

Just after the turn off for the Wieskirche the road turned to gravel for quite a few km. It was quite rough, and hilly, but it also had another trick - running water. I took off my socks for the crossing, the second time the socks had come off in the day, because I had also had another go at that Kneipp site.

At another spot the water was running over concrete. One would not want to hit this at speed - slippy!

We were glad when we were done with the gravel and water, and came out at Bad Kohlgrub. It had been raining earlier and our rain gear had gone on, but then come off. So we were happy to find a shady bench at which to eat our lunch. There was entertainment there too, because trains would chug up the hill (to the extent that electric trains can chug!) we had just climbed, and then blow their whistles with what seemed like irritation, as they passed a level crossing just by our bench.

We also observed a cycling couple come out of Bad Kohlgrub and descend the hill by a path we had not seen. We mildly wondered where they were going, and Dodie's theory was not too distant Garmisch Partenkirchen. It became a moot point because after awhile the couple emerged from the hole they had gone down. We assumed it had been a wrong turn, but in fact they began some urgent investigations of the man's chain.

This was my cue to stroll over and find out what was going on. The couple turned out to be John and Julie, from Leipzig! Actually Julie was native to Leipzig, while John was American. And the problem - broken chain on John's standard derailleur push bike. Julie theorized that John has been gaining too much strength on the tour and his legs now have chain snapping power!

I don't know about that, but I could see that the broken link was quite deformed. It had to go, and one pin needed to be driven out anyway, in order to install a quick link. John had a quick link, and also a nice combo quick link install/remove pliers. But he lacked a pin driver, and also the knowledge that such a thing is needed to put in a quick link. Aha! Steve had both the knowledge and the tool.

The quick link that John had gotten at a bike shop before setting off on the trip, happily anticipating just this type of problem, was a design I had not seen before - instead of each piece having a pin and a hole, there was one piece with two pins and then a slightly dished joiner plate. We struggled to get the plate on the pins, wondering if we had something upside down, or backwards. After fiddling for too long, I brought out my secret weapon - Dodie. We handed her the parts and had her study them. She then suggested what turned out to be an orientation that worked.

When I heard the link go click there was a great feeling of satisfaction. It was some left over serendipity from yesterday that had us sitting on that bench at that moment. Without that John and Julie would have been truly deep in the doodoo. John said he might have phoned his Dad in the U.S. for advice, but even if Dad had not been asleep at around 4 a.m., the advice would have been that a pin tool was needed. Better to have some other Dad (and Mom) sitting on the bench opposite!

"Mom" also determined that John and Julie were heading off into a food desert, and got them to accept a sandwich for the road. We hope that they made it to Fussen ok. Thunderstorms followed quite soon thereafter, for us anyway.

As we pedalled off we thought about what would have been John and Julie's dilemma. Perhaps another cyclist would have had the tool. If not, there was no bike shop anywhere near that we saw. Maybe kms away somewhere in Bad Kohlgrub. Or, could one call a taxi? Just then we passed a car dealer and saw these very capable looking vans - just 20,000 euros - that would have been one fix, anyway.

20,000 euros, but do you really want a Renault?

When we saw the threatening clouds over the nearby Alps, we stopped and put on our waterproof pants. Then shortly, the rain jackets, just as it began to rain heavily, with matching scary thunder.

It was ok, because we were quite near our destination in Eschenlohe. Yes, except that the track had been torn up, of course.

We backtracked and found a way around, and arrived at Hotel Tonihof, just as the rain got really heavy.

For this hotel we had broken our hearts and paid 160 euros, but the room is huge with a large balcony, and the place is very atmospheric. We have been peering out at the mountains and the rain and feeling glad that we are here (inside!).

Today is a special day, being the birthday of Joni, our first born. As for what gives Meaning to Our Lives today, there is no question, it's Joni.

Joni as a falconer. She loves travel and nature adventures.

Today's ride: 57 km (35 miles)
Total: 2,399 km (1,490 miles)

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