Day 37: Feldkirch to Hergensweiler

May 19, 2022

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It was hard to say goodbye to Manni and Kristin and Matti because we love them and it's hard to say when we will meet again. However there was some talk of Lisbon in the Fall, and that gives us something to look forward to.

We are a little more familiar with the area now, and were able to jump on a forest path that paralleled the Ill and deposited us directly on the Rhine.

We crossed the Ill - which here is quite wide - just before it entered the Rhine.

Here we are, at the junction of the Ill and the Rhine. So the Grampies are on the Rhine - again.

Not all travellers have had the same luck as us in this region!

Now, in a simplification of the route that we came by, we just shot down the east side of the Rhine, heading north.

We paused for some last looks at the mountains in Switzerland.

Everything went well as we followed the Rhine. We even met some more of our favourite cows.

Everything went well, that is, until we reached the bridge at Hochst, where construction, as usual, has made a mess of the bike ways, of which there are many. After some false starts we got ourselves straight, joining other cyclists in threading through the chaos.

And then at last, wonderfully, we were back at the Bodensee. That is, parks, beaches, boats, swans, eis cafes, and that beautiful water, oh my.

We joined the flow of cyclists on the Lake's east side path, as we returned almost to Lindau.

We were making our way to the next phase of this trip, as we turn east and roll up and down along the base of the Alps, on the way to Fussen and then Salzburg. The part to Fussen passes through the centre of the region known as the Allgau, which is full of beautiful pastures, huge farm houses, and known for cheese production. Despite the map below, most sources start it directly at the Bodensee.

Despite what any map might say, Dodie warned that we were going to begin climbing into the Allgau the moment we would leave the lake shore. She was, of course, right. It was actually fairly gentle, and we really appreciated the lovely pastures and buildings.

Dodie often speculates on the scenario were Booking offers you a place just a few km away from the spot you requested, and that sounds ok, except that it turns out the property is those km straight up a mountain. This has happened to us in practice only a couple of times, but it's worth watching out for it.

Today's booking was a bit like that, as Landhaus Sonne in Hergensweiler is 2 km sort of straight up!

It was good that this time it was me that spotted the roadsign, keeping us from blowing right by.

The buildings are handsome. We will take a little better look tomorrow.

Across the street from our huge and attractive guest house.

p.s. Preview: About the Allgau - don't blink, because we are due to reach Fussen in a couple of days. Then maybe one extra day in that area and we'll head for Salzburg. Salzburg is the home of the "Mozart Kugeln" marzipan chocolates. Kristin jumped the gun a bit by buying us this bar version of the iconic balls:

Looking forward to more "Mozart" stuff in Salzburg, maybe even music?

What gave meaning to life today: Completing the excursion up (and down) the Rhine.

Today's ride: 61 km (38 miles)
Total: 2,170 km (1,348 miles)

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