July 24, 2021
Ontonagon, MI - Presque Isle, WI
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What a day! We woke up to heavy rain and strong winds. That was in the forecast, no surprises. Jacinto's method is to wait it out. Spoon and I texted back and forth. He urged me to get going, rain or not. I told Jacinto if I waited until noon, I would need lunch before leaving town. Probably eating a big meal before such a long day would be a good idea anyway. We ended up agreeing to get breakfast at the restaurant around the corner - Syl's. They were hopping busy. Prices were cheap, compared to what we'd been paying. They had homemade baked goods, including pasties, and bread. I ate half of my omelet and saved the rest for later. By the time we ate, the sky was clearing. I hurried and loaded my bicycle. We had asked for and received a noon checkout. Vicki, the motel owner, took our photo for the motel Facebook page. I had momentary panic when my route wouldn't start navigating. Phone and wi-fi service on this section has been frustrating.
I started first. Later, Jacinto said he started at 12:30. The rain had already dried on the streets, except for the occasional puddle. That works for me, my bike is large and takes a lot of wiping to clean! The temperature was 72 degrees at noon, but the air was sultry. I hoped I didn't overheat.
Last night, at the last moment, we had changed our route from country Norwich Road, to Highway 64. It saved three miles and 300 feet of climbing. On a day like today, it all mattered. I was doubtful about the quality of our ride, being on the highway. In the end, I was pleased with the road. There was a nice shoulder, good quality pavement, and not much traffic. We did take Walsh Road, to get off the highway, but that wasn't necessary. I thought the road quality wasn't quite as nice, with chip and seal, but Jacinto didn't notice.
What we both noticed was the strong headwind. The rain had passed us by, but the wind was still moving through. I was on Walsh Road, which had a slight incline, but was going only 7 mph! I did the mental math on 65 miles at 7 mph and didn't like that number at all. But, there I was, doing the best I could do. The wind was a real killer.
I felt like the wind changed about Bergland. We definitely had a horrible, total headwind between Bergland and Merriweather while we rode on Highway 28. That is our old nemesis. 28 and 64 merged for four miles. Unfortunately, the combined highways defaulted to Highway 28's riding conditions - small shoulder and a rumble strip. Let's not forget that headwind, just for fun. Four miles, four miles. I did it.
Jacinto and I agree, once we headed south around Lake Gogebic, we suddenly had a tailwind. A tailwind has seldom been more appreciated! Not only did we have a tailwind, but the long, gradual climb finally leveled off. There were many residences along the lake and also several cabins for rent. I was wishing one of those rentals were our destination. I spent some miles doing the math on what would happen if we stayed at one of those cabins instead of our intended destination. No, those numbers didn't look good.
The truth is, I started the day with a bad attitude. Rain, headwind, a late start, big miles. None of those things makes for a happy cyclist, at least not this cyclist. I had plenty of miles to bring on an altitude adjustment. I had to admit that the cycling was fine. On Walsh Road, while riding slowly in the sun and humidity, I felt myself overheating. Looking in the mirror, my face was red, red. At that point I was examining passing vehicles for SAG possibilities. It was a low point of the day.
Now I was riding in the shade, I had been managing nutrition well. I think the good breakfast really helped. My mph had picked up. I had to admit it was turning out to be a pleasant, if long, cycling day.
Jacinto caught up with me on this stretch. I was chipper. The miles were finally moving along. The humidity seemed to be gone, the shade was WONDERFUL. We shared some Gatorade and a couple of slices of dried chili mangos. I told Jacinto to go ahead and get going. I was fine. I could see his tail lights for quite a while. Then he was suddenly gone. Where did he go? Off into the trees? It made no sense. Further down the road, I figured it out. He went down a hill! That's why he disappeared. We had a series of 5-6 rollers that Jacinto thought were great fun. Me? Not so much. I don't enjoy pointless climbs - I like my climbs to have a real top and a real downhill. I never saw Jacinto again.
We had two miles cutting the corner on Kimberly Road, then there was the last stretch on 64/8. That was all gratifying - except for the road closed sign. No! I'm not going to reroute at mile 55! I called Jacinto to see what he had done. Jacinto said we are local traffic and the sign said local traffic could go through. True . . . but I would really, really not want to reroute at mile 65!
Almost always, as I get to town, I play a little mental math game, watching the computer and my speed, estimating when I will arrive. Near the lake, we had passed a sign saying Central Time Zone. My bicycle computer hadn't changed time. We hadn't crossed the state line yet. Wouldn't the time zone be at the state line?
I saw a road saying State Line Road while on the downhill into Presque Isle. By the time I worked through in my mind that it was probably our state sign, it was long gone. We had about 1,100 miles and three weeks in Michigan. We will finish the trip out in Wisconsin.
I came to another road closed sign. But it only covered half the road. It turns out that the closure was all of the main street being torn up and dirt. I was so, so ready to arrived.
Spoiler - I had placed the motel wrong while doing my routing. I went left, I should have gone right. Jacinto called to see where was I. Going the wrong direction! Today was not a good day for bonus miles, especially since it included a climb - both directions, because I had to go back.
Jacinto said to go back to the gas station and go straight. I did that. Then, next to the American Legion, there was a sign for downtown. I called Jacinto back and asked if I were supposed to go to downtown. He didn't see either of those. I asked if he saw the school bus stop sign. No, he didn't see that either. I would think I was on the wrong road, except he said to stay on the main road.
Finally, there I was. Hurray, hurray! I wasn't even hungry. I was past hungry. Jacinto had made us a reservation for 7 PM. I had a half hour to shower. We were at the restaurant right on time. They had a sign on the door about being short staffed, please be patient. Once we actually sat down and finally ordered, our food came out quickly. Here I was complaining about eating too much fish, and I ordered baked walleye. It was excellent. It also wasn't fried!
Spoon, I had a gin and tonic to celebrate. It was strong enough to put hair on my chest.
Our room here is nice. Prices are starting to go down. We are in-between tourist areas. Food has been much cheaper the past couple of days also. It is 10 PM, new time. I'm ready for bed. Jacinto was picking out a movie to watch, I told him go ahead. I need my beauty sleep.
Strange one - my legs are actually fine, but my left big toe hurts. It is either a blister starting (odd), or I've somehow picked up a sticker that I can't see. I'm good, I'm just tired. My face is a little sunburned. It was a long day.
AD Carson pointed out that we've done the climb today, tomorrow we have little climbing while riding across the plateau. I'm all excited because tomorrow we are at the Super 8 and have a king size bed. Who would think I'd be excited about Super 8?
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https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Painted_turtle
2 years ago
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Today's ride: 66 miles (106 km)
Total: 1,080 miles (1,738 km)
| Rate this entry's writing | Heart | 5 |
| Comment on this entry | Comment | 8 |
2 years ago
2 years ago
I've been enjoying your trip through the U.P., which I remember so well from my college days in Marquette. I'm sorry for making such a big deal about pasties. I forgot that you no longer eat wheat-based food.
I rarely eat bakery goods of any kind. I make an exception for pasties.
Pasties are about the only pies I eat -- not because of the wheat, but because most pies contain cooked fruit. I love raw fruit, but once it's cooked, it's awful.
I see you've turned south. You were so close to the Porcupine Mountains. A seven mile climb to the Lake of the Clouds overlook would have provided you with one of the best pieces of scenery in the Upper Mid-West.
2 years ago
2 years ago
Hey, pasties are all the thing. You know what my burning question is? I did check out pasties - I LOVE baked goods, and used to make a pasty type meat pie with hamburger, cabbage, and onion. I'd branch out and put all sorts of stuff. Kind of a homemade Hot Pocket, before Hot Pockets were a thing.
Anyway, my burning question is - with the pastie reading, I see rutabaga is a key ingredient. I'm not sure I've ever eaten rutabaga before. Where is it grown? I don't see any crops growing.
I still want to know where are all the dogs. I saw two dogs on the bike path today. I've seen NO dogs the whole trip. It was notable. No farm dogs, no in town dogs, no little lap dogs . . .
Already it seems that the roadways aren't as clean. I'm waiting another day or two before making that an official proclamation. Michigan has amazing road surfaces and clean roadways. That's for sure.
2 years ago
2 years ago
2 years ago