I’m writing this at my middle of the day stop at Cockburn rest area, where the road to Halls Creek turns off. I will soon head off and turn onto the Gibb for real but wanted to post this while I have reception to say I’m back on the road! 

I had late night anxiety about the sound my free wheel was making and particularly about a washer I found and put in there while I was messing  around without really knowing what it was for. 

So I decided to wait and go back to the bike shop when it opened at 8. An added bonus was that I got to go for another breakfast burrito with Davin and Kenny. Davin used to be a deep sea diver for oil and gas which potentially explains why he’s so wiry and a little bit nuts. 

He helped me take my cassette off again but hadn’t seen a similar mechanism so I called Chris again who looked at the same hub in the shop and told me there was no washer. So I put it back together without it and it sounds a bit better. I think it doesn’t just click more than whirr because of the mechanism. Anyway, I felt better about it. I rode it back to the hostel and had to adjust the limit screw to get it down to the highest gear. Then I loaded up with all my immense amount of stuff and wobbled off. 

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That reminds me that yesterday Jeff gave me a pretty painted rock for good luck, I’ll take a photo of it soon. 

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I’m thinking I’ll probably stealth camp near Emma gorge tonight. I don’t think I’ll get there in time to do the walk this afternoon so will do it tomorrow. I’m aiming for Ellenbrae station in three nights time (the 5th) where I might have wifi or reception but I’m not sure in the middle.

Update from Emma gorge: I really underestimated the scale of the El Questro operation, of course they have Telstra reception! 

I thought about trying to leave Davin and Kenny a message at the rest area but couldn’t figure out how to do it so I rolled out to retrace the last 8ks I’d done before heading into new territory.

The road was quiet just after 2. It could have been my heavy loading but I swear the wind was also contributing to me not going as fast. But I made it to the Gibb river turn off alright. There were two motorcyclists there finishing the road. They said it wasn’t too busy to be able to pick a line but they were worried about me getting punctures. I guess we’ll see. They had come out two days early cause the food at El Questro wasn’t healthy enough. They seemed to be carrying a lot but maybe that wasn’t food. 

I’d need to buy smaller gear and give up carting all my food with me if I ever get into bikepacking. I don’t really know what Kenny was carrying either come to think of it cause he said he didn’t really cook either, just stocked up with stuff for sandwiches a few days at a time. 

The road headed west, obviously, into the ranges rather than along them and immediately got stunning, with great views north to the escarpments running out towards Wyndham and south/east views of red hills and cliff faces. 

It also really wasn’t busy. Granted it was by then about 3 but still, very quiet, except it must have been road train time cause about eight passed me in both directions. 

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I rode all the way to Emma Gorge, in the hope that there would be some info on the gate about when you can turn up in the morning. There was not, so I guess they’ll just see me around 7. 

I backtracked a little way down to a track I’d seen just after a small creek which led into a nice campsite beside a pool. I don’t think the pool is big enough for crocodiles but I camped back on the roadway to be sure. 

I cooked pasta and pesto with fresh veggies and cheese (hence my weight) but the mozzies came out with a vengeance and forced me into my tent even though it’s still too warm for that. 

It’s weird to think that there are people only a k or two away, so close I can hear a rumbling that I think is their generator, paying $350 a night or more to be out here. I can’t imagine their dinners being any better but maybe they have fly screens.

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