August 10, 2025
Cusco: The beating heart of the Andes
Three weeks of high-altitude magic in Cusco
I’m sitting in Cusco’s Plaza de Armas, my feet up while a shoe shiner works his magic. In front of me, the cathedrals stand tall over the square. Tourists move in groups, cameras in hand. Locals cross between benches, invariably offering a polite gesture, in Spanish ofcourse, of sunglasses, paintings or even something a little more dubious.
My bike is propped against a stairwell in one of Cusco’s typical colonial styled hostels, collecting more dust than kilometres right now. After six straight months of pedalling across seven beautiful South America, I’ve traded my saddle for hostel dorms, market stalls, and day trips that don’t require a helmet.
For the last three weeks, Cusco has been my base camp — part recovery zone, part playground. My girlfriend flew in for ten days, which meant my days were less about chain grease and more about chasing sunrises, ruins, and after some trial and error with our limited Spanish and knowledge of local cuisine, finding our favourite coffee spots and restaurants.
In Cusco and its surrounds there is a plethora of fun to be had, I suppose that makes sense as it is the one of the most sought after travel destinations in South America. On just about every corner there is a travel agent offering up amazing tours and excursions using the city as a starting point - just be sure to shop around as prices are not standardised and you can always get a better deal with some haggling! With so many highlights to choose from, I’ve listed a few of my favourites so far.
Machu Picchu
We took the scenic route via the Sacred Valley catching a collectivo from Cusco to the beautiful Inca city of Ollantaytambo and from there a bus to Hidroelctrica. It’s worth mentioning that some due diligence on your colectivo driver should be done if you want to get to your destination in one piece, we learnt this the hard way! We arrived in Auguas Calientes after a beautiful jungle hike along the train tracks, and nothing could prepare us for what was to come, throws of people queuing for a ticket to go to Machu Picchu. With a bit of luck and day later we were making our way up to the famous ruins. Even after seeing it in countless photos, the first glimpse of Machu Picchu was something else. We walked through the terraces and temples, listening to the stories of our guide Louis, trying to take in the scale of it all. This was truly in the jewel of the Inca empire and we were in absolute awe of our surroundings! After a steep and I would even say treacherous hike up Huayna Picchu (my fear of heights obliviously didn’t help the situation), we end our tour, all smiles and super grateful for the incredible experience we just had.
Rainbow Mountain
We left Cusco at 3 a.m. for Rainbow Mountain. The hike started above 4,000 metres and ended above 5,000. It was slow going, but the colours of the mountain were worth it. Layers of red, yellow, and green stretched across the ridge and even though the mountain was full of tourists, the experience was still breathtaking, definitely a must see while in Cusco!
Humantay Lake
Another 3am start for this one - why does every tour in Peru start at sparrows fart?! The van dropped us at the start of the trail after a bumpy drive out of the city. The hike was short but steep, and the altitude made it slow going. At the top, the lake sat at the base of a glacier, the water a sharp blue that didn’t look real. After standing a que for some mandatory photos, I took the opportunity to just sit and appreciate the magnificent natural wonder.
City Life
When we weren’t hiking, we were exploring Cusco’s ancient streets. The San Pedro and San Blas markets are a regular stop for cheap lunches and a real local feel. The city is just incredible with so much to offer!
After three weeks in Cusco, I’ve had time to settle into the rhythm of the city and explore its surroundings—on foot, by bus, and soon again by bike. Rainbow Mountain, Machu Picchu, Humantay Lake—each has been a reminder of how varied and raw this part of the Andes can be. Next, the wheels start turning north to Huaraz in probably my most challenging stretch of my trip so far - 1,300 odd KM and around 28,000 meters of elevation gain, I’m nervous but excited at the same time!
My Quick Tips for Cusco and surrounds
- Altitude acclimatisation – Spend at least two days taking it easy before any big hikes. Coca tea and slow walking are your friends.
- Budget eats – San Pedro and San Blas for cheap, filling lunches (my favourite is a Machu Picchu sandwich and the menu completo for a meal under 10 Soles).
- Best coffee – Three Monkeys Coffee (just be prepared to wait for your brew, it was voted the 22nd best coffee shop in the world and there is a reason why!).
- Hostel hotspot – Plenty to choose from but Wild Rover for parties, Black Lama for something upmarket and Pirwa Hostel for a budget option.
- Side trip transport – Shared colectivos are a fraction of taxi costs (just be prepared to wait until enough passengers are wanting to take the trip and try and gauge the driver - can’t stress this one enough!).
Until the next climb
Jay 🚴
Today's ride: 3 km (2 miles)
Total: 3 km (2 miles)
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