From a Lovely Ryokan to an Aging Preoperty, such are the contrasts of travel - Six Wheels Through Japan - Osaka To Sendai and Hokkaido - Part 4 - CycleBlaze

From a Lovely Ryokan to an Aging Preoperty, such are the contrasts of travel

Ajira to Odawara

We have had a memorable stay at Ryokan  Taisekan in Ajira and it is one of our favourite traditional inns of this trip.  It is family owned and the current owner is the grandson of its founder.  85 years ago, his grandfather dug to quite a depth, to access the hot springs for the Onsen.  He told us a wonderful story about how guests in the early days could cast a line from their room and fish for their supper. Today, that is no longer possible as the road that takes you through town and some development stand between the Inn and the ocean. 

Onsen Inns usually have a corner like this where you choose your Yukata to wear during your stay.
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The Ryokan Taisekan is furnished and organized in a way that encourages relaxation. There are very pleasant common areas available for guests to spend time.
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Another common area with a grate in the centre of the table for cooking.
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An incredible selection of Sake, Shochu and other Japanese brewed beverages.
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This is a photo of one of the Onsens at the Ryokan. Normally you would never take a photo of an Onsen but it was closed for cleaning. There is a modest sized pool inside as well as an extensive and deep pool outside.The hot springs were dug from a depth by the founder of the Ryokan 85 years ago….the grandfather of the current owner.
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The hot springs are a combination of calcium, sodium and chloride.
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We had a wonderful time chatting with the owner and his daughter, the third and fourth generation who are continuing their family’s tradition. He shared wonderful stories about the history of the Ryokan.
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In true Japanese fashion they made us feel like special guests.
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The daughter gave us this origami which is known for giving good luck. She wished us a good and safe journey.
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Information of the hot spring baths at the ryokan
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Fish drying outside this home.
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Traffic along the coastline of the Izu Peninsula has been heavy. The combination of traffic, narrow windy roads, and steep climbs has meant we have had a lot of white knuckle riding.
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Tunnels are a fact of life here as they are frequently used in these hilly areas. We like that we can avoid a big climb and it is always cool.
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The scary bit is finding a way to merge with the traffic when it is busy as there is no dedicated space for cyclists or pedestrians.
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To escape the road we turned off and rode through the charming town of Atami. We were able to continue for a while before rejoining the main road.
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We liked the feeling of this small town.
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This lovely old building is the residence on the upper floor and a shop at street level. The same family has lived here for generations. The woman who lives there continues to sell confections, but what was interesting was that much of it had historic photos and items which made it feel like a Museum, but no photos allowed.
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We usually see fishing and surfing along the coast. However, we have seen a few dive charter businesses
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Izusan-Jingu Temple
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Our one frustration riding in Japan is that sidewalks are all too often not weeded or maintained (outside of cities). As much as we would like to be off the crowded roads, it is not worth it to try the sidewalk as we find situations like this and have to join the road.
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Barry’s set meal for lunch…tempura, udon noodles in broth and rice bowl with tiny shrimp covering the rice.

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I had tempura. The challenge of the meal was placing the order as it is done at your table on a tablet in Japanese. We got there.
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We couldn’t resist a serving of ice cream for dessert once we read that they only served Hokkaido soft serve, which is so good and creamy.The chocolate syrup is served on the side.
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Enough said…we and the cars make it work somehow. The blue arrows show that this is the bike route.
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Well, that was a nice climb and the payoff is the view. We were able to get on a quieter road on the descent. No traffic and a wonderful 6 km speedy ride to the bottom.
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We never tire of seeing fruit like these oranges and mandarins growing on farms and by homes.
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Oranges and bamboo for sale on the honour system.
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The message is warning drivers (and cyclists) that high waves can be a danger. The picture is pretty clear as well.
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Today has been a great ride but the humidity really got to us and then it started to rain. We struggled finding a place to stay but ended up at an older hotel by the train station, The Drake. Like us, The Drake is feeling its age.
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Today's ride: 50 km (31 miles)
Total: 959 km (596 miles)

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