Day 14: Shirakawa to Gujo Hachiman: Back in the sun again, and out of the mountains

October 21, 2007

After the previous evening's deluge, we were thrilled to awaken to a beautiful, sunny morning. Over the next four days we enjoyed a spell of wonderful weather that carried us all the way to our next day off in Kyoto, when the rains came in. Extrordinary luck.

We started the morning by walking through Shirakawa, marveling at its grass-roofed homes steaming in the morning sun. After that we ascended from the village, crossed a small pass and then dropped down the Nagara river to Gujo Hachiman, a small, pretty mountain town where we stopped for the night. The ride itself was beautiful - especially along a stretch of abandoned road that paralleled the highway, giving us 10 miles or so of peace, solitude and great views.

Gujo Hachiman is very colorful, and was delightful to stroll around. It is at the confluence of three rivers, and is riddled with small canals lined with well preserved traditional architecture. In the evening, we were treated to a remarkable meal in the room of our ryokan - our server presented us with a lovely whole fish as the centerpiece of the meal, which we appreciatively consumed; then she reappeared, with a second, larger fish; and later, with yet another and even larger one! She spoke no English, and we couldn't recall the Japanese for 'enough, already', and were relieved to see the procession come to an end.

After the previous day's downpour, we were delighted to have the sun reappear.

Streamside agriculture in the mountains north of Gujo Hachiman.

Gujo Hachiman, a castle town at the confluence of the Yoshida, Nagara and Kodara rivers.

Traditional houses lining a canal, Gujo Hachiman.

Yanaka Lane, one of the colorful canal-side streets in Gujo Hachiman.

Bicycles in the entryway, Nakashimaya Ryokan.

The onslaught of the fishes, Nakashimaya Ryokan. The main courses of this elaborate feast consisted of three whole fish served in succession, each larger than the one before.

Today's ride: 143 miles (230 km)
Total: 618 miles (995 km)

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