To Terrades, Spain

June 6, 2025

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Breakfast wasn't served until 8:30 this morning. So much for an early start on our big climbing day. The good news is that we both had our best night of sleep since arriving in Spain. Perhaps jet lag is in the past.

Breakfast was a large spread. Perhaps qualifying for a ten jammer? I explained the concept to Jacinto. He was stuck on no jam being available, so he thought it was a no jammer.

We were done with breakfast, and out the door at 10 AM. Not too bad, I don't think. I have one baggie of a Hammer product calorie drink. I splurged and mixed one bottle this morning. Jacinto was happy to see his food load reduced by two scoops! He's also happy every day when we take vitamins - every little reduction in weight counts.

We took a right out of the hotel and started climbing. The first climb was 800 feet in six miles. It was all a reasonable grade on mountain roads. It's just like at home. Mountains reduce the road options, so we were all out there together, but traffic was polite. One thing about Europe is the vehicles are much smaller than in America! Even at 10 AM, the sun was already beating down. I had told Jacinto I needed a potty break after an hour, but I think I was sweating all of my extra fluids out. We saw dozens of cyclists again today. All were dressed in full kit. I did notice that they had started their rides much earlier, and were already on their way back to town. We saw cyclists until we reached Girona. IDK if it was too hot after that, and they had all ridden earlier, or if we were just out of prime cycling territory.

We saw only one tourist today. A road bike rider pulling a BOB trailer, with an old black BOB bag, not the newer yellow bag. We must be out of the no honking zone. I had a couple of cars honk a friendly toot, toot. Only a handful of the many cyclists acknowledge me. I said buen dia to almost all of them. I can't say that I saw any women cyclists. Jacinto didn't think he saw any either.

I was happy today to be away from the coast, and the people. Today was mountain riding similar to home. Except today had good road shoulders. So far the pavement has been notable in smoothness. Spain has taken it one level further - we saw a street sweeper in the middle of nowhere! In Tucson we dream that they would sweep the city streets - and here Spain is sweeping the highway. If only. Around home in Colorado they are good to sweep in town, and maybe over the bridge. But, the highway? Heck.

I had lobbied Jacinto to divide today into two. We were passing through two major towns, Girona, and Figueres. I was sure as we passed through, I would be sad that wasn't our destination. Plus, going through cities really slows the day down. I floated the idea of giving up our rest day to divide the day up. No go. We ride. In the end, it was just fine. Girona is a destination for many cyclists. For us, it was an obstacle. Before Figueres Jacinto had stopped at a gas station, and I didn't see him. I passed by. I wondered where he had gone, because there was all sorts of navigation with roundabouts and turns as we approached town, and my navigator was not waiting for me! I made a couple of wrong turns, and finally called Jacinto. He was behind me. I waited at an industrial area on the far side of Figueres that had a lot of semis. I have a new Coros Duro GPS that I really like. It has a mapping feature. I need to download my route onto it so I can see as I ride. Then I wouldn't need a navigator. As is, I have to pull my phone out and turn it on to see where I should be on RWGPS.

We knew after Figueres that the final miles would be a climb. I was so hot on the first climb in the morning, I was afraid of melting on the last climb late I day. So, so happily clouds came over. According to my fancy GPS, that dropped the temperature from 95 to 80. I believe it. Jacinto got way ahead of me on this last stretch. That was fine. We are way up in the mountains now. There's only one road, and I can't get lost. Or can I? I rode to where RWGPS said the lodging is, but there was nothing except a farm stand selling cherries. I would like fresh cherries, but we suddenly have no cash.

Ah, I didn't tell you that story. 34 miles into the day, Jacinto stopped at a gas station. That was an excellent choice, I was dragging with the heat and wasn't happy thinking about how many miles were left. Jacinto went in and bought us both a juice. He said there was only one bag of ice, he would buy it when we were ready to go. I asked him for a juice for the road also. He went in, and said now the bag of ice was gone. He should have bought it at first. Jacinto went back to get the juice, and asked if they had more ice. The female clerk gave him two ice cubes in a cup. We discussed where two ice cubes would best be used, then we left. There was enough time for someone to see our ziplock baggie of cash (isn't that how you carry your money when riding?) and bring it out to us. The other possibility is that he sat the money on his rear rack, and it fell off. I was riding behind and didn't see it, but that doesn't mean it didn't happen. Either way, our 200E of starter cash is now gone. The only other thing we spent it on was allergy medicine at the pharmacy. Side note on that is the pharmacist said probably in France that medicine would be prescription. I googled Telfast allergy medicine. That is the same as Allegra in the US. He has a seven day supply. Then we will see what is sold in France.

So, I had no money for farm stand cherries. I didn't say much about his losing the money. I could totally make the next silly move. It could be worse - it was only cash. No credit cards or passports.

Back to the story - I overshot the lodging, and had to go back. The front of La Fornal was so inviting, I didn't make it any further than their bench out front! Jacinto had already talked to the proprietor (?), an older man. He was all ready to finish the check in process (I had the passports), but I told Jacinto I had just arrived and wanted to decompress. I sat in the shade, and enjoyed the view. I saw what looked like a spigot for spring water across the street. I asked Jacinto, but he didn't understand what I was saying. The man kept poking his head out, checking on us. I asked him if that was 'water from the ground', because I sure didn't know how to say spring water in Spanish. He was quite enthusiastic, yes, it is spring water and excellent water. I sent Jacinto across to fill up my bottle. I enjoyed the cool water in the shade. Then Jacinto opened up his leftover chicken from last night. I could smell the bad! Nope - he was going to eat it. Jacinto's opinion is that only the skin was bad, the chicken was fine, didn't I want some. No! I definitely didn't want any. Happily, there was a trash can next to the spring, so we didn't have to take the trash inside.

We made a dinner reservation for 7 PM. We had an hour to clean up. A late start, and a climbing day means late dinner. They had menu del dia for 35E each. We were a captive audience, that sounded perfect.

We have a breakfast reservation for 8 AM. They serve it at the table, but we can order eggs they way we like. Tomorrow is a short mile day, but it's the actual pass crossing. I don't suppose I will be so lucky as to see the gentle grades we had today. I can hope. My legs (and bum knee) and doing great! Jacinto of course, has already said next year he can bring four panniers and carry all of my gear, so I will be faster. What a gentleman! I told him he could practice tomorrow - but, darn, he only has two panniers at the moment.

We haven’t rated enough breakfasts to assign a jammer rating, but this one seems like a high competitor.

New to us is fresh tomatoes. They taste homegrown. I did not realize I was supposed to take the olive oil and vinegar packets next to the tomatoes. I did not see anyone take the whole garlic cloves at the same table.

Selfie with Llagostera in the background.

I wonder what the background story is here.

Is this demonstrating a water shortage? Pollution? I’m not sure, but it caught my attention. Seen in Girona.

This looks old. I’ve seen a castle this trip, now I need a Roman bridge.

All of the disposable bottles here have caps that stay attached. That is new to us.

Jacinto and I agreed this is France. We are 14 miles away. We can see that far.

These wild yellow flowers were common at the end of the day.

Stone houses are an attraction for this American.

Jacinto fills up my bottle with fresh spring water right across from our lodging.

It took me a long time to move inside once I arrived. I was comfy!

Jacinto carried last night’s chicken for a snack. He opened it right next to me and it smelled bad! His opinion was that only the skin was bad, and he proceeded to eat it. That’s on him. Happily, there was a trash next to the spring water, so he didn’t take the stinky container inside.

Our bikes parked next to a grandfather clock.

We are four for four on nice rooms this trip. I’m happy!

Our bathroom had a separate tub and shower,plus a bidet!

We had the menu del dia at the hotel restaurant. 35E each. We were a captive audience. Jacinto had ice cream with rum sauce for dessert. I think it was pure rum. It sure opened my eyes.

My chocolate cake was a disappointment. There was no cake involved. It was two think chocolate layers with some sort of cream filling. You can’t beat the presentation though.

Today's ride: 55 miles (89 km)
Total: 109 miles (175 km)

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