To Sisteron, France

June 24, 2025

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Breakfast was at 8 AM, and we were the only ones there. No tables were set, etc. I was feeling anxious. Not so much about the climbing, but about the heat on the climb. I wanted to get going! I walked back to the kitchen where I could hear rattling. Coffee is a universal word. Everyone understands about coffee drinkers in the morning. After a few minutes, the waiter appeared with two small carafes of coffee and two coffee cups. The better for Jacinto - double coffee. We've relied heavily on our phone translator in Rustrel. The waiter brought bread and jam with the coffee. I asked for eggs. Omelets? Sure, omelets. Those came out eventually. Then I asked for fruit and yogurt. First he shook his head no, then yes. Eventually we received cantaloupe, but no yogurt. All in all, it was a good breakfast for 8E. each. I went one more and asked for cold water with ice for the bicycles and the hot sun today. Both of my water bottles received water only. Jacinto's camelbak got ice. Except, by the time he carried it back downstairs, the ice was melted.

I took off first. There was only one road for the majority of the day. I made the first turn out of the hotel correctly. What was on the corner, but a grocery store! I called Jacinto and suggested he look for ice.

Last night when we were routing, RWGPS and Komoot had two entirely different routes. RWGPS took us on an undulating lower road that stayed below 2,000 feet elevation. Komoot took us to a 4,400 foot peak in a 21 mile climb. Then there was a long downhill. Jacinto pointed out that it would be cooler to climb up to 4,000 feet. We went that direction, and it was an excellent choice. Even though we didn't leave as early as I wanted, it was still cool. Then Jacinto sprinted the ice to me.

The climb was stiff for the first two miles, then it slacked off to 3-4% until mile six. That was the steep part of the climb. After that it was a long slog to mile 21. Over all, I was happy with how I did. This was a Colorado type climb. I can do those well.

Jacinto waited for me at the pass sign, and we shared pickles and pickle juice. It went down just right. I had a peeled and sectioned orange that I'd put a couple of ice cubes in the ziplock. The ice helped keep the orange fresh and tasty.

The downhill had some twisty stuff. I kept my speed down for a few miles. Finally it straightened out and I let the bike roll. We didn't see any bicycle tourists today. When we were on the downside of the big climb, a group of 8-10 club riders passed us. They were concentrating on their pace, and did not greet us.

We had perhaps two turns today. Jacinto waited for me at both of them. As we were coming down the valley, I noticed the heat returning around 2,500 feet. The lower we went, the hotter it got. When I reached Jacinto at the turn for Sisteron, for some reason I thought the day had 42 miles, not 45. I was not only disappointed about the extra miles, but also disappointed that they were uphill! We could see the town on the side of the hill. There was a punchy little granny gear climb to town. Just what my legs didn't want.

We made it straight to the Hotel Tivoli. I liked the tables out front in the shade. Jacinto said they had cold water. What more could I ask than those two things? But, the lady had opened the garage for us, so we needed to get our bikes inside. Three motorcycle riders pulled up at the same time. It was busy.

I had used quite a few of my on the bike supplies today - electrolytes, snacks, etc. I wanted to resupply those from Jacinto's panniers and put them right back on the bike. To do that, I had to basically unpack the panniers on the patio. In retrospect, I could have carried the snacks back downstairs. Now our bag of beef jerky from home will be gone. Jacinto finished a bag of Doritos while I got organized. Now we are down to one bag. He's had a little trouble finding tortilla chips. For the first week or so of the trip Jacinto was really missing corn tortillas. Now I think he's given up, and just keeps eating Doritos.

We finally made it to the room, and discussed Jacinto's shifting problems. He's spent a large part of of the trip stopping along the way and trying to get the bike to shift into the granny. Now we are climbing again. Shifting by manually moving the chain down is tedious and annoying. I told him it would be worth going to the shop. Jacinto grumbled, but he went. This is the 4th shop he's had look at the front derailleur. This mechanic could get the bike to shift in the stand, but when Jacinto tried it on the street, it wouldn't drop down.

Another problem we had was my seat was really loose and creaking. One of the brackets on the seat bottom was loose. Jacinto tightened it up with a screw driver at the top of the pass, but by town, it was loose again. Jacinto walked my bike to the shop. The mechanic put some 'glue' (Loctite?) on the screws and tightened them back down. Hopefully my problem is fixed. 10 E was the charge.

By the time Jacinto did all of that walking back and forth, we went to dinner. I have really enjoyed the food in France. We liked Spain a lot, but we ate a lifetime of French fries in a month. It didn't matter if we ate at an inexpensive place, or in a castle. Every meal we ordered came with French fries!

Now we are back in the room. We have TWO desk fans. I have a little table on my side, so the fan is blowing about six inches from me. Jacinto is quite jealous. I think I'm going to give him my table. He did walk my bike to the shop. I would have done that. I didn't want to take both bikes at once, because I didn't want to stress the mechanic with my weird looking bike. I really did think they could fix Jacinto's derailleur. He said that's his one disappointment this trip - that he didn't bring the Rodriguez with the Rohloff hub. Jacinto says the good old Surly is going to be retired to around town riding. That is all good and well, but a shifting bike isn't an unreasonable request. IDK why four shops haven't been able to adjust it. Plus, the shop at home had the bike twice. So that almost counts as five shops.

Today was an excellent riding day. There was very little traffic, scenery was all we could dream of, and the road was just challenging enough to make for good bragging.

My one mile stats. I’m happy with my performance. 300 feet of climbing! This is my chance to give the Coros Dura a plug. the attraction was the solar charging. Jacinto hasn't charged his at all this trip, and still has 40% battery. My set up is more vertical, I don't think it charges as well. I have charged mine once this trip. I like that the Dura has live route map cues (no verbal cues), and all of the information numbers seen below. I got to custom pick my info. There was a learning curve, going from the simple computer I was using, but I do like the Dura.

Jacinto sprints ice cubes up the 6% grade. I was thankful.

Looking back down valley from the big climb.

The chain up sign appeared at 2,500 feet.

We saw a few falling down stone houses today.

The trend of no church, but randomly placed crosses continues.

Here’s an odd round building to add to my collection. The rocks on the roof appear to be tossed on top.

Jacinto only waited 15 minutes at the top. I count that as a win.

This must be an important col, we saw several advance signs.

Jacinto was disdainful of this downhill col sign. I take any col they give me!

See the discrete yellow post office sign to the left? The bar/restaurant was Next door. Both were closed at 1 PM on Tuesday. Jacinto said they must have plenty of money in France. The businesses are never open to make more money!

We have been seeing espalier apple trees for several days. Some are not covered. Most are.

I hadn’t noticed the broom plant disappear, but I noticed the fragrance when it reappeared!

Damn. Is that Sisteron on the upper left? Yep. We ended the day with a 1.5 mile granny gear climb.

Our hotel likes velos! Perhaps there will not be a bicycle parking fee? Motorcycles pay 4E. Cars pay 6E. No mention on bicycles.

Our modest room. However, we have two towels each, and our own personal fan!

Jacinto walked his bike to the shop to have his front derailleur looked at again. We walked back later to see if they had a kickstand for my bike. I saw a bright orange bag on a bench. I told Jacinto it looked just like his bag. It was! Some kind person had rescued it and placed it there for us to find. The bag contains our two duffle bags that our panniers go in for the flight home.

A geology person will love the rock formation above town.

We selected a place for dinner, but they didn’t open for 20 minutes. They sent us next door for drinks. I grouched that we could have the drinks at the same table we were going to eat at. But, no. Then we ordered and our drinks never came. Finally, Jacinto saw the server fast walking back down the street. He had gone to buy olives for my martini!

I ordered Marget Canard (duck breast), on Rich’s recommendation. I like it and would order it again.

Jacinto ordered a well done burger that was still pink in the middle. The bun was black, but he said it tasted normal. It came with a side of tartar sauce. ??

Today's ride: 45 miles (72 km)
Total: 663 miles (1,067 km)

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Mike AylingI had a Surly LHT. There was a knack in changing to the granny ring. AFAICR you need to be half way across the cassette when changing, almost impossible to change when on the largest sprocket. I sold the Surly when I bought my Rohloff equipped bike and in the unlikely event that I get a new bike at age 83 it will have a Rohloff.
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1 month ago

Kelly IniguezTo Mike AylingJacinto’s Surly is a 2008. It’s been a good bike all of these years. Typically a tune up does the trick for any issues. This is confounding. I will ask Jacinto where he is on the cassette when he changes the front. That might be a way to get around his problem. Thank you for pointing the solution out.
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1 month ago

Mike AylingHi Kelly, my LHT was about the same vintage.
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1 month ago

Scott AndersonI concur with an all this. It's just an aging feature with cassettes and chainrings, one I've experienced a few times over the decades - including now, with the Rodriguez. I'm just starting to have problems with the Rodriguez for the first time, and have to either downshift early while II can, or upshift a few gears while I'm climbing to get back up to a spot I can drop down from. Fortunately I'm such a climbing brute that it's no problem - weaker riders would struggle and grind to a halt, I'm sure.
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1 month ago

John McAh the enjoyment of openings and closings of the PTT (the Post Office) and the local bar / tabac!
I hope you and Jacinto are enjoying your adventure. I'm sorry it's on the warmer side of the thermometer!
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1 month ago