To Enbrum, France

June 26, 2025

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I left the windows open last night. Jacinto was afraid we would get cold, it was supposed to be a low of 62 degrees. That might have happened outside, but the chill sure didn't get in our room. I was hot all night. We both had fantasies about our upcoming AC tonight in Enbrum.

Breakfast was a sweet breakfast for 8E. It sure didn't seem like enough or appropriate food for such a big climbing day. I did ask for yogurt and fruit, and received an apple and yogurt. I guess we will be bicycling the French way - with a croissant and jam for fuel. As a hedge, we walked over to the bakery. I bought a quiche, Jacinto got a steak sandwich. Just in case we faded on the climb.

From Scott's encouragement yesterday, we both decided to ride the climbing route today. I agreed it would probably be less traffic than the short route on the north side.

We don't know if the climbing route on the south side of the river had less traffic, but it certainly had more than we expected. Cars, motorcycles, and semi trucks. We've seen the occasional logging truck the past few days. Today it was a variety of semis. Even though there was traffic, it still doesn't feel like in the states. The vehicles (even the semis) are smaller, and don't seem to pass as closely.

Today's route had a similar first climb to my original route on the north side. But there was a second climb that I knew I would whine about. The first climb was 8.5 miles and 1,200 feet elevation gain. We had a tunnel pretty much right way. I settled into the 6% grade and worked with the granny. I wondered if it was worth applying sunscreen when it was all sweated off in the first half hour!

We saw signs for a ski area at Montclar. Jacinto was waiting for me and I could see multiple layers of switchbacks up the side of the mountain. We both thought that's were we were going. I was secretly happy that we took a left away from the switchbacks. I asked Jacinto later if he was sad not to do that climb. He said he was not - he was tired of all of the traffic!

It did seem as if most traffic kept going towards the resort. We had a nice few miles. We could see rain clouds ahead, towards Barcelonette. I felt enough raindrops that I wondered if I should get my jacket. We've been agreeing the past several days that rain would be a relief. Now it is threatening to rain, and it's a little cold up this high. Especially with a sweat soaked shirt.

When we made the left, we turned towards the sunshine. It's interesting how mountain weather works.

I knew there was a second climb, but I sure didn't want to climb it! We'd been seeing club riders all day long. It seems like a usual number of them. We've also been seeing signs for a Triathlon in Enbrum this weekend. Perhaps everyone is here a day early to warm up? I didn't bother saying hello to any of those riders. They never respond. I did have a car driver give me a thumbs up on the worst part of the climb.

The second climb was 2.5 miles and 843 feet of climbing - see how handy those GPS's are - to let me know just what torture is ahead? I saw lots of 10-12%. That's Stelvio. Except Stelvio is that grade for 15 miles. My legs were just fine yesterday. A second climbing day in a row is waking my legs up. I was slow, but I didn't walk. I did eat peanut M&M's that I had in my capris pocket. Jacinto said they would melt, but I told him I would eat them first. He had never heard the M&M commercial as a child, "Melt in your mouth, not in your hands".

I watched for a grocery as we rode into Enbrum. It's a busy place, with plenty of cyclists (that Triathlon?). I had a man at a cafe tell me, "Bon voyage". That's the first compliment I've received that I've understood. It's too bad we have just one more day in France. Then I will get compliments in Italian!

We had received information from the hotel how to get in the parking garage and the hotel, as we would arrive before the office opens. The building numbers were out of order, but we looked for a garage door with a key pad, and got the bikes parked, got inside, and showered. I was STARVING. My croissant was long gone. M&M's, gone. We went to the restaurant on the corner, where we were able to get a pizza and a panini. Jacinto wasn't impressed with the amount of bread we've eaten today. Here we are. I asked, salads were not a choice. At least we got something. I had been willing to eat the quiche I had carried, but Jacinto wanted a cold drink.

We walked down to the grocery for fruit and pickles, came back. I've got the journal about done. I think we should eat our bakery items. I told Jacinto that the bread on his sandwich isn't going to be less hard tomorrow. No - he would have a real meal. Off we go. There are restaurant choices close to the hotel.

I saw three more motorcycles pull in. How will they all fit in the garage? We will never get our bicycles out!

The first tunnel was only a few miles from town. It had lights, which didn’t help me when a motorcycle passed me from behind while I was still inside.

It seems most towns have community water fountains.

The look of the local church has changed.

Someone is meticulous and has plenty of time.

I wouldn’t have the patience to water these well placed flowers - but I do appreciate someone else’s work.

We were on the south side of Lac de Serre-Ponçon.

Note my maximum speed. It didn’t help my average speed at all. I think my Coros got confused going through the tunnels.

The sign says to park respectfully. There were five motorcycles parking spots. We saw two groups of motorcyclists arrive. I’d guess 7-8 motorcycles at least. Jacinto went to check if our bikes were placed okay. He said we were blocked in, but everyone is inside. 2E parking for bicycles.

Jacinto’s first action was to turn on the AC. It was 11E extra for a room with AC. If only we had that choice every night!

The bathroom was behind swinging bar type doors.

Jacinto had plenty of time to check out the viewpoints while he waited for me.

There were several towns with churches today. I didn’t see a single randomly placed cross.

I still had ice in my water at the top of the first climb.

We had occasional spits of rain. It looked more serious in front of us.

The second tunnel did not have lights. We passed through the together without any vehicles.

Part of why the lake is so striking is the unusual blue.

Enjoy the view from the comfort of home. I was sweating significantly for the right to view it.

Just when I thought I was tough, riding up a 2.5 mile 843 foot climb, here comes a guy doing it barefoot! He said he forgot his shoes at home.

Today's ride: 34 miles (55 km)
Total: 727 miles (1,170 km)

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Rachael AndersonGreat. I worried all day that you never saw my comment because of all you received after it turned daylight over here last night night. By the time I thought about it again you were probably down at breakfast and I was anxious to you’d left early to beat the heat, and at the end of the day you’d be overheated, overheated and unhappy to find that RideWithGPS was wrong as usual and badly overstates elevation on roads like this, and in the end you both had about the same amount of climbing but his was much easier.

Congratulations, and enjoy your view fem the top in Brioncon, from the walls of the citadel if they’d open to the public - we weren’t there long enough ourselves since the whole tour was one night stands ten years agoCol du anonette one day, Izuard the one after that, then Adrian in, then Col d’la Fer, then that mean lady Madeleine next, and on and on and on until we finally dropped to alike a Geneva. Never again!

I’ll drop some context comments on your photos when I get some free time in the coming days.
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1 month ago

Rachael AndersonType your comment here
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1 month ago

Amber StarfireGreat job on all those climbs. I’m impressed!
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1 month ago