September 10, 2003
Wednesday - Thursday Sep 10 - 11: Sophia (rest and explore) - Train to Belgrade, Serbia then Bar, Montenegro
Considering the punishment I put myself through yesterday, I am doing quite well. The only time my legs feel "funny" is when I try to climb stairs. Normally I zip up two steps at a time; today I think a wheelchair would be a blessing (no not really).
One person has told me that this city is not worthy of a visit. With St George's Church built on Roman ruins, the gold "mushroom" domes of Aleksander Nevski Church, and many beautiful fountains and buildings, it would have been sad to miss such a beautiful centre. My books suggest there is a lot of exhaust, which there is, but as with almost all of the trip, the sun always shines when Brent is around, so everything is gleaming in the sun.
I spent the evening with two locals who suggested I take a train next to Belgrade then to Bar, Montenegro, in case of any gtt I may run into (to be explained later). Today I will contemplate doing that or continuing on. Either way, I have concerns about the lack of accommodation between Nis and Podgorica in general, and especially at this time of the year. If that is the case, I will be able to spend more time along the Adriatic, including Dubrovnik, which has come highly recommended. And the nice thing about the train... I will have a sleeper and be able to bring the bike right in with me to be safe and sound!
The train trip had all the makings of a mystery movie. The eastern capital to another eastern capital; the pouring rain; the cool dark night; the people coming and going on the platform; the university professor from Sophia with the tam and top coat; the German businessman with the tussled hair and rumpled tie... "Night Train to Serbia". It was kind of neat on the train, but I think their conductors were in the same school as some others we know. Enough said.
In Belgrade I went through the red tape and bureaucracy of something as complicated as getting the bike into the baggage car of my train. At least when I got into Bar last night, there it was - my bike ride could continue.
With no Euros, no banks open and no ATM's I really had not much to do but watch the full moon rise behind the cloud-veiled mountains and glimmer off the Adriatic. I am back to warm weather and climate, which is quite a change from the freezing cold in Belgrade earlier in the day. I took no pics while there due to the issues I might encounter.
Today's ride: 4 km (2 miles)
Total: 625 km (388 miles)
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