December 3, 2003
Wednesday Dec 3: Leiria to Obidos: Amazing Walled Town
Wow! Wow! Wow! Wow! Wow!
To what, you might ask? To this amazing town. But, from the start...
The route started along the main N1 highway (in the rain) which was kind of dull. But as soon as the route switched to the minor roads through Alcocaba, Caldas da Rainha and on to Obidos - amazing. Small villages perched on the top of misty hills, the sun was shining, and at one point, there was that elusive Atlantic peeking through the hills, sparkling in the usually-unknown sun. Wow!
When I went through Caldas da Rainha, I was kind of thinking I should stay there, but a few km later, I knew I had made the right choice. There in the distance, circling a hill were the medieval stone walls and towers of Obidos. This was where I had planned and MUST stay. My room is about 2 m from the 16th Century aqueduct. I have been wandering the ancient hill fortress/town ever since. What a gem of a place. As my notes say... "Fortified hilltop villages don't come much prettier than this immaculate little place... Entirely enclosed by high medieval walls [on which I walked]..." That is what the wow is all about. Of course, the grilled salmon over wood coals that I had for lunch was nothing to sneeze about, either, though with my cold, I did actually sneeze... but not about the salmon (ok, I'm going in circles here).
The old buildings here are painted white, but have either a bright yellow or blue band along the ground. Many of the walls have vines and flowers hanging right down to the cobbled roads. Wow!!! I think maybe I will stay here until about mid-April when the tourists come. Apparently this place is stuffed with tourists in the summer, but right now there are almost none. Again, it's all mine.
Tomorrow I shall return to the Atlantic, and if possible, ride along the beach if it is hard enough. From pictures I have seen, the beach is sandy and vast. Not like the cliffs further to the south. Speaking of which, I have an idea for when I arrive in Cabo da Roca (the furthest west point of continental Europe and my trip) - something to do with a Canada pin, a message in a bottle, and the cliffs and ocean... more to come.
Today's ride: 63 km (39 miles)
Total: 4,811 km (2,988 miles)
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