DES MOINES, IOWA: Deeeeeee-bunked!

September 15, 2018

I was so anxious about today's mission that I was on the road by the ungodly hour of eight o'clock. At 8:10, I discovered I had also been so anxious about today's mission that I had forgotten my sunglasses and had to ride back to my motel which, as an aside, had a very strange smell wafting through the hallways. The sunglasses aren't all that special, but I went back anyway.

This is the approximate point where the sun was just getting up above the clouds and I discovered my missing sunglasses. It's also the approximate point where Five Mile Road unexpectedly turned to gravel.

The unexpected gravel wasn't really a big deal. In fact it was a prettier stretch of road than anything I got for the next 20 miles after returning to pavement. Then came the next surprise.

Time and again I've found that the completely unexpected sights and sites turn out to be the major highlights. It happened again today. I was happily pedaling along on Highway 17 South, watching all of the Iowa State football fans driving north to Ames, with their red & yellow Cyclone flags flying, for the big game against Oklahoma. Then, rising up from the miles and miles of corn, I SAW IT!

A Hindu Temple in the middle of Iowa? How could I resist exploring a little Hindu culture?

Characters of Hindu lore are carved into the tower.

I just had to see what was inside, and let me say, it was just as awesome as the exterior, if not more so. It's a sacred place, however, and photography was strictly forbidden. I'm afraid you'll just have to read my attempt at using words to describe what I experienced. Sorry.

I was welcomed by a number of people of Indian (India) descent. I had a hard time understanding their accents, but I finally figured out they wanted me to remove my shoes before entering the temple. No problem. Once I got inside, I felt like I should have removed my socks too, because everybody else--all Hindus--were barefoot.

I stared at the architectural beauty of the temple for a few minutes before I was approached by a young man who offered to give me a personal tour. Normally I'm a self-guided, breeze-through-the-place-kind-of-guy, but this time I accepted the offer.

I'm pretty sure they don't get many visitors like me because the guide frequently assumed I was familiar with various Hindu gods and legends. Just as frequently, I would tell him that I knew nothing about the Hindu religion. Then he would try to fill me in. Most of the time he didn't get down to the very basics so I was still lost and confused. He spoke better English than the people who greeted me at the entrance, but there was still a clear communication gap. Still, he showed extreme patience with my ignorance and was very, very friendly.

Near the end of the tour, when my guide was showing me a statue of one of the supreme gods, a man who I assumed was a priest, rang a bell, stepped into the alcove with the supreme god statue, and closed the door. My guide said it was time for the priest to perform a special ceremony in which he "feeds" the supreme god. I was kind of stunned.

Another highlight was when I got to ask nine Hindu figures for a special wish and then walk around them nine times. I was assured they could grant my wish. What a fine and unusual place.

Before leaving, I thought I should get The Reckless Mr. Bing Bong in a picture of the temple.

Continuing on, I started feeling the energy of a major urban area. I've said it before but, as much as I like rural areas and wild areas and natural areas, I also like big cities. I like a lot of things. The approach to Des Moines was gradual.

White pelicans relaxing on the Des Moines River.

Northwest Beaver Drive took me past some nice forested areas and some nice homes--like this one.

I don't know the significance of the gigantic golf ball on a gigantic golf tee, but I figured it was worth a photo.

"I think WE should be living on Tenacity Lane."

Tanks, fighter jet, and bicycle at Camp Dodge National Guard Base.

Well, there could be no more stalling. It was time to veer off onto Merle Hay Drive toward the suburb of Johnston--the 9th most dangerous cycling city in the United States. Oh, the horror! THE HORROR!

When I was circling the nine gods and goddesses back at the Hindu Temple, I think my wish was for something like world peace. As I approached treacherous Johnston, I came to realize I should have been wishing for SURVIVAL.

I simply could not find anything dangerous about Johnston and I really tried. Perhaps I just hadn't ridden into the right parts of the city. Those parts would be easy to miss with all the bike trails, new home construction, friendly drivers, and all. I don't know . . . it just seemed like any other American suburb to me.

My brother texted me today and offered a suggestion: "If you want to experience more danger, maybe you should ride without your helmet," he wrote. I might just have to do that.

Iowa is more diverse than I thought. This onion-domed building is a Sikh Temple just outside of Johnston.

"There is no rest for the wicked," as the saying goes. Johnston is an inner-ring suburb, so there is nowhere else to go from there but to Des Moines--the 10th most awful, disgusting, and perilous city for bicycle riders in this entire country. I think I'll keep my helmet on for a while longer.

I've got to admit that my entry into Des Moines was a little scary. I'm not familiar with the city and I didn't do a lot of research into better routes toward the downtown area. The roads I took were crumbly and narrow and busy. A few times I bailed onto sidewalks. Then I found a network of bike trails into the inner city, where I reserved a comfortable $153 hotel room.

The Des Moines skyline from the bike trail along Martin Luther King Parkway.

Into the heart of downtown Des Moines. The city has many bike lanes. I can't say the same for quite a few cities I've been in that are nowhere to be seen on the list of "the most dangerous."

Today's ride: 52 miles (84 km)
Total: 469 miles (755 km)

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