Riding on World's most(?) dangerous road

July 30, 2025

“Ghumdha dukchaina?” (Knees/legs not hurting?)

A villager asked me, but I didn’t understand. Then he patted his thighs and asked again. I replied, “Ali ali” (a little).

Lucky son of a gun that I am—I met Motaacycle.

Today’s 20-mile “push-your-bike” journey was pure heaven, and it took all day. I don’t think I could’ve done it on any other bicycle.

Views like this make me want to take this torturous route again..

The route was wild, steep, and raw. By evening, I felt like I was in an episode of World’s Most Dangerous Roads. But I know I’m getting ahead of myself—I haven’t seen the best yet.

raato hilo ( red pasty mud) filled my route..

Just before sunset, I spotted a small off-ramp and followed it on a whim—Nepal or Iceland? It led to a scenic viewpoint overlooking a waterfall nestled between two mountains, framed by terraced rice fields. Unreal.

I fought the urge to pitch my tent right there and pedaled on to Katunje—a tiny hamlet of about 40 houses along the Mid-Hill Highway. I arrived just as the sun was setting and decided to stay the night.

I found a shack owned by a mother and daughter. They had a spare room and charged me NPR 100.

Turns out, I’d only covered 32 km, but climbed over 4,100 ft.

The next day, I decided to explore Katunje. I was told of a viewpoint said to have “80–100 steps.” It turned out to be more like 1,500 steps, with 800 ft of elevation gain in under half a mile. I used it as training over two days while lazing around the village.

The views from the top? Something!

Dai who brought me to the shack and then became my co-worker while planting millet..

Just as I was thinking of moving on, I stumbled upon a millet planting ceremony. The whole community had gathered to help a family—my host’s, as it turned out. I joined in, practiced my Nepali, and shared some laughs.

Lucky, lucky me.

Today's ride: 32 km (20 miles)
Total: 3,823 km (2,374 miles)

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