June 26, 2025
..glad ಹಡೆದವರು aren't watching me..
I left Yuksom, Sikkim, yesterday—a day later than planned—because I wanted to soak up every moment there. The ride turned out tougher than I’d expected: about 100 km with 11,000 feet of climbing. The first 70 km climbed around 5,000 feet before dropping into the plains, where the real challenge began—a brutal 6,000-foot gain over just 12 km.
I hadn’t expected the plains to be sweltering in the 90s (°F) after the cool, misty days in Yuksom. I rode down to Jorethang on the Sikkim–West Bengal border, got my bike checked, and started the steep climb back up. I had no energy—running only on morning oatmeal and chai. The heat, humidity, and incline made even pushing the bike exhausting. Last time I descended this stretch, my brakes nearly failed—locals say even cars and motorbikes often overheat here. Back then, I’d promised myself never to think about how I’d ever climb it. Yet here I was.
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I was drenched in sweat. Strangers invited me in for Sprite, ice water, and dry noodles with eggs. In Goke, a kind shopkeeper gave me cookies and cold water. By evening, I reached a riverside homestay in Jamuney, taught three online classes, ate dinner, and tried to ignore the overly chatty host.
Today was another hot, humid grind. After a good chowmein breakfast, I crawled up the steep slopes—pushing for minutes, resting for longer. At Tukvar, I met a motorcyclist cooling his Royal Enfield so his brakes would start working again! I drank gallons of water and noon ko chai (salt tea). When I felt water pooling in my shoes, I realized it was just my own sweat dripping down.
I’ve never sweat so much in my life. I’m always thankful that the people who bore me (ಹಡೆದವರು) can’t actually see me—if they could, they’d be in so much pain or drag me home by my ears, after pushing MotaaCycle into the valley!
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Eventually, I reached Darjeeling, by-passed the bazaar area and headed for Auringley to stay at a friend’s homestay. The final 20+ km were flat but nerve-wracking in the dark along NH110—dangerous even by day. At one stop, I changed my soaked shirt, pulled on a dry hoodie, poncho, and gloves, and pushed on carefully. Finally, I reached my friend’s place— completely spent but grateful to be off the road and in the homely place I had spent so many weeks in April.
Today's ride: 37 km (23 miles)
Total: 2,993 km (1,859 miles)
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