October 14, 2013
Mertola
Along the Guadiana
We awoke this morning to a glorious sunrise. For 10 or 15 minutes we watched in wonder as the sky transformed by the minute and the land below gradually came into light. It made an awesome way to begin the day.
We experienced another perfect day of cycle touring - mild, dry weather, good roads, little traffic, lots to see. If this continues we will need to seek out some adversity to add a bit of drama to the journal.
A bit north of Villa Real we left the main highway to follow M507 to Alcoutim. If this doesn't qualify as an ideal cycling route, I don't know what would. Lovely country, lightly rolling hills, smooth, recently paved roads, and nearly zero traffic - in stretches it seemed like we encountered as many bicycles as cars. For the whole way we were within a mile of the Guadiana, a significant river that forms the border between Spain and southern Portugal. The vegetation near the river is quite lush, the banks lined with 20' tall stands of reeds, backed by citrus orchards, olive groves, and eucalyptus. The river is quite busy also, with small fishing craft, yachts, and at one point a massive river cruiser.
About 35 miles into the ride we arrived at the riverside town of Alcoutim, scenically situated on the bank of the river and directly across the water from the Spanish castle town of Sanlucar de Guadiana. We had a very pleasant lunch at a snack bar overlooking the river, and were surprised at how inexpensive it was - less than we've been spending on lunches from the supermarket.
After leaving Alcoutim the road turns northwest from the river and climbs out of the green belt into a more open, arid landscape. We soon pass a sign that we are leaving the Algarve and enter into the Alentejo, our home for the coming week. Shortly afterwards M507 ends and merges in with a larger highway - still little traffic, but occasionally a passing semi gets our attention.
Around 4 we arrive in Mertola, a small fortress town back on the Guadiana again. The approach from the south is dramatic, with a good view of the town's crumbling castle and Roman bridge. After a welcome and refreshing shower, we went out for a walking tour of the old town. We didn't have a lot of time - by 6:30 it starts getting dark now - but then, there's not a lot of town. It all fit in.
Not long afterwards we ended the day at a terrific small restaurant in the old town, sitting outdoors on their rooftop overlooking the river (down there in the dark somewhere) and beneath the illuminated castle. Great meal, great day.
Elevation log; 3600' today, 6500' total.
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Today's ride: 55 miles (89 km)
Total: 144 miles (232 km)
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