Bunyola to Port Soller and back - More Dreaming - Lisbon to Barcelona - CycleBlaze

May 22, 2022

Bunyola to Port Soller and back

« Coll de Sóller is one of Mallorca’s most famous cycle climbs.

Simply put, it's a classic.  The reason for this is not impressive statistics or race history.  It’s because it is a joy to ride.  There is little traffic (due to the tunnel for cars and coaches), and there are roughly 25-30 hairpins each side - plus fabulous views: north to the sea, and south over the island to Palma. »    Quote from  Epic road rides.com

That’s a perfect summary of today’s ride.  We had the added challenge of the heat but since this was THE day scheduled for the ride, we got ready to go.  First pack the bathing suits, towels and sun protector hats; second, be right on time for the breakfast buffet when it opened at the late hour of 9am and then enjoy eating as much as we desired knowing the energy that was going to be expended later.  Check!

So we were off.  There’s a quick downhill out  of  town, then 5km of gradual uphill that is busy with vehicles but there is a wide shoulder.  There is a tunnel under the pass that saves 7km and lots of climbing, but bicycles are not allowed, so we turned onto the old road while all the cars take the quick tunnel.  Then everything changes and you are pretty much alone with other cyclists.   As you climb out of the valley, there are a few steep sections before you approach the hairpins of the higher slopes.  We find it hot but not bad at all as we continue to spin upwards, most likely due to the adrenaline rush we are feeling just for being here.  As we climbed, incredible views open up to the south through the gap back to Palma and the water.  Just under an hour of climbing and we are at the pass.  We pause to catch our breath, congratulate each other, take a photo  and we're off, eager for the downhill.

The ride down the north side to Soller was superb; much of it is shaded and the twists and turns just go on and on.  We hate to use the brakes but have to stop occasionally just to fully appreciate the fabulous views of the rocky craigs, Soller way down in the valley and the sea in the distance.  We took our time as we wanted to be sure to check out the road for the climb back.  All too soon the narrow road ended and we joined the cars exiting the tunnel for a 2km unpleasant ride to Soller with barely any shoulder. 

Our goal was to go all the way to Port Soller for a swim on this side of the island.  So we coasted downhill for another 5km to the Port Soller beach where we changed and dove in for a much-needed, refreshing swim.  We didn’t stay long knowing there was a long climb to get home and the day continued to get ever hotter.  We stopped for a quick lunch in Soller, girded ourselves to repeat the dreaded 2km ride to the tunnel turnoff and then all was well once again as we enjoyed the quiet road and beautiful surroundings.  It was super hot and a pretty steady climb but we were grateful to be on the shady north side in the heat of the afternoon sun.  Cresting the Col for the second time was even sweeter.  We drank more water as we drank in the view of the mountains and Palma in the distance.  It was a delightful, slow cruise down in the furnace like heat of the full afternoon sun. Wow, was it hot; we were glad to be coasting down and not climbing up.  We found a side road on the return that saved us a few km of the cars exiting the tunnel so the last bit was a relief in our worn out state. 

Even with the heat, the Coll de Sóller was truly enjoyable and memorable.  Towards the end of this great day Steven commented that although we had seen over 100 other cyclists, we had not overtaken anyone all day; we may have been the slowest on the mountain, but why rush through such an incredible experience?

If you are looking for a place in Bunyola, Es Corte Vell is great.
Heart 3 Comment 0
View from our balcony.
Heart 5 Comment 0
The breakfast is superb. They make you eggs to order, but it's hard to leave as the waiter keeps bring more cafe con leche.
Heart 5 Comment 0
We tasted a delicious Mallorcan specialty called Ensaimadas. Similar to croissant although our waiter told us that they are usually the size of dinner plates and can be filled with Nutella or custard.
Heart 2 Comment 0
The road out of Bunyola with a wide shoulder.
Heart 3 Comment 1
Jane KyleMy kind of riding...no traffic&great scenery!
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1 year ago
Marvellous switchbacks with a view back to Palma.
Heart 5 Comment 0
We made it to the top!
Heart 5 Comment 1
David MathersWell done! It was a hot climb for sure but it was great to have no traffic. The road down to the port is sketchy!
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1 year ago
Bliss coasting down the north side.
Heart 4 Comment 0
A lovely little beach at Port Soller.
Heart 3 Comment 0
Soller.
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The temperatures since Valencia have been officially ‘tropical’, with nighttime temperatures not going below 20 degrees C. To enjoy the tropical evening, we decided to have dinner in the square, just a perfect distance from the nearby cafes with their festive atmosphere as the Mallorcans cheered on their football team in an important game. By the time we were leaving, the home team was up 2 to 0. We had another Mallorca specialty ‘Pimientos de Padron’, small green peppers cooked on a hot grill with oil and coarse salt- delicious.
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Today's ride: 43 km (27 miles)
Total: 1,925 km (1,195 miles)

Rate this entry's writing Heart 6
Comment on this entry Comment 3
Scott AndersonTaking careful notes.
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1 year ago
Jane KyleTrying to convince my husband to investigate getting his recumbant to Mallorca!
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1 year ago
ann and steve maher-wearyAs we’ve been saying as have the Fenwicks and the Mathers, Mallorca is fab for biking. Apparently this last week was super hot for May and that’s not normal. We would rather the heat then the rain. Now it has cooled off and is 23 degrees. Perfect for cycling. They called for rain today but it didn’t. Same tomorrow so we are going to ride and see if we get wet. I’d recommend the island. Cheers
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1 year ago