Day 15: Pahoa: To Kalapana, Ahalanui, and back

January 25, 2016

To follow what happened today, let's have another look at that Puna map:

The main roads of the Puna district, around Pahoa

The day before yesterday we headed down the Pahoa-Pohoiki Road in the north east part of the triangle, much enjoyed the Ahalanui Warm Spring, and cranked back up 137 and 132 to Pahoa. That Pohoiki road is memorable in this district, because of its narrow bits, with trees overhanging the top.

This time around we tried out the Opihikao-Kamaili Road, which heads for the sea from halfway down highway 130. Then at the bottom we turned right and went to the end of 137, where lava had wiped out the town of Kalapana in 1990, and where additional lava flows have been active, even last year. Then we turned around and pedalled the entire coast, up to Kapoho (taking the opportunity to dive into Ahalanui one last time), finally, and wearily ascending 132 back to home.

Here is what we saw and found out:

From Pahoa until our left turn down Opihikao-Kamaili Road, it is a steady climb, that peaks at 1000 feet. In an error that earned me lots of ridicule from Dodie, I forgot that Pahoa already has an elevation of 655 feet. So when we reached the 1000 foot summit I felt it had been an easy 1000 feet that we could repeat any time with little effort. If there was any doubt about the true situation, it was erased as we headed down. This was a real brake burner. It was a hill where when you release your brakes the bikes leaps forward like a motorcycle. After a while it even had a runaway truck ramp.

The really steep bit only lasted a km, after which the road took a more reasonable course. At that point we passed yet another papaya plantation. We like to look at the base of the plants to see if any ripe papayas are lying there for us. And here, there were some! So I jumped off my bike and charged in, but only to be repelled by webs that enterprising spiders had set up, no doubt to trap hungry cyclists. I brushed two of the arachnids off me. Spider experts, have a look. Please don't tell me they were deadly, or anything!

This guy jumped me! Thanks to Bill Shaneyfelt for identifying it as the harmless, non-native Crablike Spiny Orbweaver.

Anyway, I went back in, to collect at least one plump papaya. A little further down the road someone had papaya at a roadside stand, so I also broke my heart and put 50 cents in the box to buy yet another one.

We like it best where the trees cover the road.

As hoped, the road in its lower reaches did offer the prized one lane portion with lots of jungle on either side. Then at the bottom we were treated to classical Hawaiian scenes of blue ocean, white surf, and graceful palms. It was idyllic, and we looked at houses that overlooked the sea speculatively. Would we like to live here? We could swim in the sea or the warm ponds, eat papaya every day, cycle up and down the coast.... Naw, we decided. and it wasn't even the distance to the grandchildren. It was the distance to the 7-11. What would we do if we got a sudden hankering for a POG, or an apple fritter?

As we continued southwest the lush foliage gave way to Ohia brush. The reason is that while lava has flowed over this whole area, we were heading into sections of more recent flows, where plants have had less time to recover.

More of the seaside trees that end of growing horizontally.

The jungle gives way to Ohia trees, closer to Kalapana.

Finally we came to the area where the 1990 lava flow had cut the road, and at the same time created acres of new land as it flowed into the sea. This is the lava that Dodie and I had walked over in 1990, getting some great glowing shots of hot lava and steaming sea water, burning our boots, and being complete idiots. Now the area is more safe, though there may be some flowing lava within a km or two.

At the very end of the road there is a restaurant. The restaurant at the end of this part of the universe. So one can enjoy a latte while looking at the destruction. Actually, it could equally be called construction. One group that thinks so are those who identify with the old Kingdom of Hawaii. I think their logic could be that the old kingdom gave away Hawaii to the US (or had it grabbed) in 1898, but that referred to Hawaii as it was then. If Pele has donated more land, then the Kingdom people, whoever they are, say it still belongs to the Kingdom. Consequently, they have posted the new land with no trespassing or somesuch signs. Sure, whatever, we thought, and walked out to see the new black sand beach.

A somehat exaggerated depiction of the Kalapana lava flows

Mauna Loa in the background, and the Kalapana lava flows

The black sand is formed as the hot lava explodes in the cold sea. It is not particularly fine, but it is sand. Most of it was above the water line, but the waves were washing over a very small section that could qualify as an actual beach. We were not about to try any wading or surfing here, however.

The restaurant at the end of this part of the universe

The Kingdom is already making speed limits?

Somebody is trying appropriate rights to the new lands

A bit of a path leads through the lava to the new beach

The black sand beach is mostly not actually in the water.

We are not the only bicycle tourists in the area, but we could not figure out where these guys wanted to cycle.

The Kingdom may be gone, but somebody has built this goofy castle house.

Inside is more seedy, rind is not edible.

Today's ride: 68 km (42 miles)
Total: 513 km (319 miles)

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