Passau and the Organ Concert

September 25, 2018

The city of three rivers

Last night's hotel was very comfortable- the meal looked good but after 89km of a horrendous head wind I really was too tired to eat.

By morning the wind had stopped and it was a perfectly clear but cold day (9 degrees). We really have had hard days since a week ago in Prague so it felt very good that we only had such a very short distance to ride and it was completely flat with no wind. I had made arrangements with the hotel that we could leave our bikes and luggage with them and go and explore the town and go to the Organ Concert. If you have read my previous journals you will realise that we do not have a good history with the Organ Concert at Passau. We have been here 4times before and on 3 of those occasions by our own stupidity have missed the concert. The Dom in Passau has the largest cathedral organ in the world. Actually it has 5 organs which can be played simultaneously from one console, there 17974 pipes which seems a tremendous number to me. Each day there is a short concert . When we first came there was one concert a day, it was free and the cathedral packed. Now there are 2 a day and you pay 5E the cathedral is still packed.

Passau is at the confluence of 3 rivers the Danube, the Inn and the much smaller Ilz. Arriving in Passau there were hotel barges tied up all along the Danube, there were lots of tour buses and many groups being shepherded along. People we talked to confirmed the fact that there are still only small parts of the river with enough water in it for the barges to sail so a lot of busing is going on.

Arriving in Passau at the confluence of the Danube and the Inn

We found the hotel, dropped our gear then took off for a bit of a wander to look around , have a coffee and get to the midday concert. In true form we took a few wrong turnings and began to think that once again we would miss out. We found it in time and got a seat in the packed cathedral to listen to those magnificent organs talking to each other. I would love it if our friend John was here to listen to it with us.

Image not found :( — The ceiling of St Stephens

There was a Wursthaus opposite so some saukraute, sausage and beer then to the hotel to plan our onward journey. We have lots of time so will take small steps - tomorrow to

Today's ride: 15 km (9 miles)
Total: 1,903 km (1,182 miles)

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Steve Miller/GrampiesAt first I was a little disappointed that you did not try to record the organ today. But then I realized there must be zillions of posts for this on Youtube. Certainly after I tried hard to record the singing at the cathedral in Santiago, I found many much better recordings online. Here is one Youtube that shows a lady actually playing the Passau organ(s): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lLeVE8PCq6Y

I must admit, though they seem to play many different selections in these concerts, it comes across in the end as noise. Maybe if I already knew the "tunes". Or perhaps it's the fault of the 2" speaker in my computer!
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5 years ago

david alstonGlad you made it and glad you enjoyed the recital. We are actually two for three in terms of making it on time for the concert. The crowds and having to buy a ticket on our last visit was a surprise to us as well. Still, the recital was part of a very enjoyable visit to Passau. Happy travels,

David and Maun
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5 years ago

Jack WatsonI envy you attending the organ concert--what an experience!
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5 years ago

Tricia GrahamYes we are indeed very fortuanate jack
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5 years ago

Tricia GrahamTo david alstonYes having to que up and buy a ticket was a surprise to us but we made it
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5 years ago

Tricia GrahamTo Steve Miller/GrampiesThey were very firm about NO recording. Think you have to have listened to a bit of organ music to really enjoy it - Ken has a fair knowledge of organ music so he particularly enjoys it. Those organs certainly fill the cathedral and you can really feel the low notes
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5 years ago