Bay Saint Louis - Gulf Coast Tour 2018 - CycleBlaze

March 31, 2018

Bay Saint Louis

Well, Happy Birthday . . . to me! Now, on to the day's ride! Which started out cold! 61°F . . . which is not horrible but colder than expected. But that was at 7:00 or so, and I could wait. There was no rush today, as I was only going 34 miles to Bay Saint Louis and, again, with favorable winds. So I lallygagged around and decided to do the hotel's "free" breakfast to hold me over till I reached one of the many Waffle Houses along today's course. And I mean many . . . like one every mile. That may be an exaggeration, but I was not without choices! So at 8:30 I wandered down for two bowls of cereal, two cups of "orange drink" (posing as orange juice), and two coffees.

Today's ride to Bay Saint Louis.
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I hadn't heard back from my B&B about an early check-in . . . earlier than the 3:00 PM stated time, so was in no rush to hit the road. I finally left around 10:30 and took a leisurely spin through Ocean Springs so I could align myself properly for the bridge crossing over the Biloxi Channel.

The quiet ride out of Ocean Springs.
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Once down to the bay, I followed a nice bike trail to the bridge crossing.
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And the bridge had a nice bike/ped trail on the Gulf side, making the crossing super nice. It was quite busy, being a Saturday morning.
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And at the top, the view of Biloxi Bay, sunshine and all.
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I had settled on my long-sleeved base layer (which has gotten more use this trip than expected), but it was warming up already.
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So that was pretty pleasant. I now had to deal with US-90 through Biloxi. When I laid this course out using OSM Cycle, I assumed I would be riding on a bike trail. Well, not really. It was sometimes bike trail, sometimes sidewalk, and lots of bad curb ramps (some not ADA-compliant at all), and really, just a hodgepodge of potentially good to just bad infrastructure. Whoever mapped this in OSM Cycle has low standards for bicycle compatibility!

On the far side of the bridge, one is welcomed by Harrah's Casino . . . and it takes a while for it to get better (hence my overnight in Ocean Springs).
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As you penetrate further, you realize the "bike trail" is just sidewalk for the adjacent US-90, which is all curb and gutter with no bike lanes . . . and lots of traffic.
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And even where there is a nice addition, like the Biloxi Boardwalk around the I-110 termination interchange, it was not properly signed, and I missed it completely, resulting in this interesting problem (which I successfully navigated, but only by breaking all of the rules).
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So, it didn't start out well. And it really did not get much better. I think Mississippi is one of the poorest states in the country . . . and it shows. But, as I indicated earlier, I was in no rush, so took the time to peck my way through it all. But then again, there really was no choice. I guess one could go inland a couple of blocks and ride a parallel road, but they are not contiguous, and you would need to return to the mainline at some point . . . plus, my goal was to ride along the coast! I think someone is missing an opportunity here . . . but I will let the pictures tell the story.

Beyond the interchange, this is the bike trail . . . basically an old, poorly maintained sidewalk.
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With poor integration and no real continuity. This would be a very challenging environment for an unseasoned cyclist!
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As I made my way along the coast, I started to see some improvements like this "real" boardwalk . . . a wider section of concrete pavement that seemed more recent and better maintained.
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Along the way, I passed Beauvoir, the Jefferson Davis Home and "Presidential" Library, which, no doubt, is fully funded.
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But a large part of it was just more of this . . . I actually saw an older gentleman (probably a grandfather) pulling a trailer with a child in it trying to navigate the "bike trail." Clearly a tourist . . . and clearly a sad experience for him and the children.
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One of the bright spots was this park in Gulfport, but it was only a brief respite, as beyond it, you needed to cross the roads leading to the port facilities . . . and guess who was given priority?
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But all that said, the beaches were nice if sparsely used . . .
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Beyond Gulfport and going into Long Beach and Pass Christian, things really improved in a noticeable way. And not just in the infrastructure, but also in the real estate . . . this is where the money is. And where there is money, there is (typically) good infrastructure.

The far side of US-90.
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I eventually crossed over for a closer look.
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And decided to abandon the beach trail for the frontage road . . . which made for nice riding. Although, again, not always contiguous.
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And, at this point, an interlude. Ever since I had left Dauphin Island and turned onto AL-188, I have seen, here and there, beads . . . Mardi Gras Beads . . . a (the) trail of beads to NOLA maybe?
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A historic marker in Pass Christian, which explained some of the finery in housing.
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At this point, I was less than six miles from the end of the day's ride, so decided to wander a bit around town. One plus of the Garmin is that you have all the mapping in front of you and can make changes on the fly, especially in "urban" areas where there are multiple paths forward.

Live Oak Cemetery.
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On an inland road passing through Pass Christian . . . much nicer than US-90.
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Shortly thereafter, I stumbled across my azalea picture of the day.
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Having navigated Pass Christian, a delightful diversion from US-90, I returned to that road to cross Bay Saint Louis into . . . Bay Saint Louis.

To get across the bay, you need to cycle a two-mile-long bridge, flanked on either end and either side with these imposing monuments.
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And the approach to the bridge, which has wide shoulders providing ample cycling space . . . although the far side has a separated bike/ped facility. At the time I crossed, I did not see the sign in the foreground . . . yet there was no signage to the bike path either!
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A better view of the bridge with the hump over the channel.
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And the view at the top of Bay Saint Louis.
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And, of course, a selfie of me.
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After wandering about town to check out places to see and eat, I arrived at my bed and breakfast . . . the Carroll House . . .
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. . . which was more than ready!
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After cleaning up, I wandered downtown and grabbed this better picture of the bridge . . .
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. . . and of the waterfront in general.
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And then settled into The Blind Tiger (TBT) for several beers, sunshine, and music before grabbing dinner across the street at Trapani's Eatery.
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Today's ride: 35 miles (56 km)
Total: 711 miles (1,144 km)

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