Topolia Gorge - North to the Balkans - CycleBlaze

May 1, 2018

Topolia Gorge

First, an update on the day’s news. It looks like the sale of our condo is going to go through.  We signed the final closing document this evening, after dinner.  Hooray!

Pretty brief narrative today, because I’m getting behind already - I finally slept well and got caught up last night, the first time since we arrived.  But now I’m out of time this morning, and it’s too hot already to sit long around the hotel room.

Today’s ride was fantastic.  Look at the shape of the route on the map - it’s a constant squiggle.  Now imagine it squiggling just as much in the third dimension.  Up, down.  Up, down.  Incredibly scenic.  Amazing to spend all day rounding a bend on an empty, narrow road and coming to yet another arresting vista.

The colors and texture are wonderful, and hopefully the photos give some sense of that.  To give the complete picture though, there should be audio - imagine standing at one of these viewpoints, and it’s completely still - except for the wind rustling through the olive teees, the bleating of goats, and the sound of them scrambling on the rocks nearby.  And, I’m sure, the smells must be fantastic as well, with so much in bloom here.

We arrive back at the hotel a bit before six.  Our 45 mile loop has taken all day - between the hills and the constant need to stop and absorb the views, we averaged about 9 mph for the day.  We’re greeted warmly when we return by Frederika, our new candidate for best hostess ever.  If I were younger and single, I’d have a crush on her; as it is, we wish we could adopt her.  When we get to our room we find our sun-dried laundry neatly folded or on hangers.

We ended the day on the waterfront, at a different fish tavern than the night before.  We’re at the far end of the strip, away from the crowds, and have the restaurant largely to ourselves, with a few other diners, a few cats, a small dog.  We enjoy a simple, inexpensive, delicious meal: fried vegetables, sea bream, lamb and potatoes, wine.accompanied by a few cats, a small dog, overlooking the bay.  Very nice.

It is amazing how quickly you leave the crowds behind when you leave the Cretan coast. Here, we are only a half mile from the hotel and we’re in a world apart. Too bad it’s the wrong world - we missed our turn a few hundred yards back.
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Looking back at Kissamos and the Rodopou Peninsula
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Western Crete is astonishing - between the rugged interior and the beautiful coastline we pass through one stunning panorama after another.
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Dropping to the western coast. The large white patches are plastic, providing protection for crops.
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I really love this country. This stretch reminds me a lot of the Mani Peninsula.
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Another look at the western coastline
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And another; plus a small cliffside shrine
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Rachael, modeling her newest bike shirt from Kona, is suitably impressed by our surroundings.
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Utterly amazing. We averaged about 6 mph through this stretch, with every bend in the road warranting a longer view.
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For a several mile stretch the roadside was lined with oleander.
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A closer look at the oleander we’ve seen lining the roads here. Plus some important information for those that don’t know already: oleander, a member of the dogbane family, is one of the most poisonous of the commonly grown garden plants.
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We stopped to cool off over cold drinks here in Sfinari. There are actually two neighboring cafes here, both with similar older couples beckoning us in. A bit confusing, hard to choose.
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Rachael thinks I’m overdoing it with the beehive photos. I don’t agree. If she feels too strongly about it, she could start taking her own photos and blog herself.
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Bruce LellmanI was just thinking that I'd sure love to see some beehive photos. Thank you.
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5 years ago
Scott AndersonTo Bruce LellmanThanks for the encouragement, Bruce. More to come, I’m sure. I doubt we’ve seen the last of the beehives down here.
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5 years ago
I love the way that each hive has a unique paint design. I wonder if it’s coded, or just colorful?
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Wow. What more could you hope for from a day on your bike?
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Looking north along the coastline of Western Crete
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In Western Crete
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Spotting the first bit of shade in miles, Rachael decides it’s time for lunch.
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In Western Crete. It’s been an exceptional day, with each bend in the road bringing us to a striking new view.
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The descent to the coastal village of Livadia. I tried to tempt Rachael down this road with the lure of cold drinks, but she wasn’t having it.
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Steve Miller/GrampiesPretty sure she would have gone DOWN, it was probably the subsequent UP that was the deal breaker.
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5 years ago
Scott AndersonYes, she’s always been the visionary member of the team, thinking ahead. I’m more prone to just go now and ask questions later.
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5 years ago
I don’t know what we’re seeing here, but the ridge looks like a chalk formation. We are only seeing about half of it’s height here.
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We’ve been climbing for well over an hour, and finally see the summit - a gap in the ridge where we’ll cut through to Topolia Gorge
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We take a second cooling off break at a mini-mart/bar in Elos (Rachael:an ice cream bar; Scott:a liter of milk). This is a good spot to point out that the new underbags we got before this tour. They work great for day rides.
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Steve Miller/GrampiesThey also work really well for keeping things like spare tools that you don't regularly need. Or extra first aid stuff. Or your spare glasses that you do NOT want to lose.
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5 years ago
Scott AndersonTo Steve Miller/GrampiesYup, the tool kit and spare tube are in there. Thanks for the pro tip on the specs though!
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5 years ago
See above. I stand unapologetic.
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Andrea BrownMore beehive! (a la "more cowbell" from SNL)
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5 years ago
Entering the upper end of Topolia Gorge
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In Topolia Gorge
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In Topolia Gorge. It’s a beautiful, dramatic stretch of road, with the roadside and base of the cliffs lined with wildflowers and maquis.
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One-way, light-controlled tunnel in Topolia Gorge
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Another challenge for Andrea. Large, densely flowered shrub, grows at the base of cliffs.
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Andrea BrownWhat a great plant! It looks related to lupine but is not, it's Ebenus cretica – Cretan ebony. Also not related to the ebony tree. Fantastic.
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5 years ago
Scott AndersonTo Andrea BrownThanks! This is working out great! We’ll get another look at these today when we bike back through the gorge in the reverse direction. Earlier in the day, they should still be in the sun.
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5 years ago
OK, Andrea - so what’s this one? Hint - it’s a bee magnet. I was stung taking this shot.
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Andrea BrownThis is a Callistemon, or bottlebrush. We were just looking at these out at Cistus Nursery on Sauvie Island. They are native to Australia but thrive very well elsewhere.

Sorry about the bee sting.
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5 years ago
In Topolia Gorge
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Dropping again at the end of the day to Kissamos Bay
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We receive a warm welcome at the Kissamos Hotel from Katerina (not shown) and her cat.
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We have an unexpected guest tonight at the Fish Tavern on the Kissamos waterfront.
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Ride stats: today, 47 miles, 5000’; for the tour, 154 miles, 13,200’
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Today's ride: 47 miles (76 km)
Total: 196 miles (315 km)

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Tony CullimoreWhat an amazing ride. I see why you headed for this area. Rock catchers overhead just in case. But cars using your side of the road? Not sure about that!
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5 years ago
Scott AndersonYup, pretty astounding alright. One jaw dropping day after another for the past week.
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5 years ago