Saranda - North to the Balkans - CycleBlaze

June 7, 2018

Saranda

Q: So can we see Albania now?  We’ve been looking at photos of Greece for six straight weeks now, and we’re ready for a change.

A: Soon, but not quite yet.  First, we should look at some after hours scenes in Corfu Town.  Since Rachael did the laundry yesterday, I felt like I owed it to the team to make an extra effort and went out late last night for a look around.

The Liston ranks as one of my favorite public spaces.
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It was worth the effort, I think. The old fortress is pretty spectacular at night.
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Q: Well, that was nice enough I suppose, but now can we go to Albania?  Please?

A: Unfortunately, our ferry doesn’t leave until four PM.  In the meantime, let’s go out for a short loop south of the town.  We’ll keep our legs loosened up, look past the mountains of garbage, and maybe see the pink villa where the Durrell’s live in Corfu eighty years ago.

Striking Vlacherna Monastery in Kanoni, about two miles south of Corfu Town
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Vlacherna Monastery
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The walkway across the lagoon between Kanoni and Perama. I think the rise just ahead is the site of the Durrell house, though it’s since been extensively redone.
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Looking across the lagoon from the walkway, at the end of the airport runway.
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Ah, the peaceful monastic life.
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We’re biking away from the coast up a twisty one way road, going the wrong way. Coming the other way are about 10 tour busses, because at the top is the Achilles, a palace built by the Empress of Austria in the 1890,s. It’s one of the main tourist sights on the island. We didn’t stop in, because it was too crowded, we don’t have a lock, and we don’t have time. And I didn’t even know what it is. We were just happy to avoid getting crushed by the busses.
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I’ve lost track of what these villages were, but they’re all great. On this one, I looked down this alley and saw a carpet being flung over the wall and went to take a closer look. Looks like it’s cleaning day in the Church.
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The door of the cafe was open, and strumming sounds came through so I peeked in. Fascinating place. I was sorry we couldn’t be here for lunch.
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The cypresses on Corfu are distinctive and characteristic.
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Hard to believe that cars can make it through some of these village streets, even this is the main road. Rachael had to wait her turn and then hurried through before another car showed up.
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Another interesting scene I’ve not seen before. There were four wells in a row in the center of this village.
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Color riot. As I was taking this photo a woman looked around the corner at me with a suspicious look, then smiled.
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One for each hand! And no, she’s not presenting me with a choice.
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Q: pretty nice, alright.  I can see that those amazing interior villages are worth a look.  Thanks for sparing us the garbage, too!  Now, please, please, please can we go to Albania?  That’s really the only reason we’ve stuck it through with this journal for so long.  We’ve never seen anything about Albania, and are very curious.  please?

A: Oh, OK.  Let’s go.

Boarding the flying Dolphin for Albania, and receiving very welcome assistance with the bikes. I’ve never been on one of these before - on other Lin’s, they generally don’t take bikes. They’re very fast - the crossing took 30 minutes.
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From the boat: this is Ksamil, a small resort town in Butrint National Park. We’ll be here in a few days’ time when we visit Butrint.
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Saranda
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2000 leks is roughly a $20 bill. We were happy to get this, at the second ATM we tried. Ou cards were rejected at the first one, and we were starting to consider our options.
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Popcorn is big here. We saw many popcorn vendors, mostly just sitting on the sea walls with small bags to sell.
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The seawall along the promenade is layered with goods for nearly the whole length: hats, scarves, bracelets, ashtrays, trinkets.
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Would you like one? Made by hand, by my mother.
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Parkinsonia aculeata, or yellow palo verde, is a new one to me. I’ve only known of the blue ones before. (Credit:Andrea Brown)
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Andrea BrownParkinsonia aculeata, native to Mexico and a noxious introduced weed in Australia. But very cool.
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5 years ago
Scott AndersonTo Andrea BrownOh, for goodness sake - a second palo verde species. I only knew of the blue ones. I knew the trunk looked familiar, but couldn’t quite place it.
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5 years ago
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The flip side of yesterday’s scenes. We’re looking across the narrow strait at the north end of Corfu. Amazing that they’re so close, and Albania was closed to the world for so long.
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Albanian economics: fifty leks for fifty licks
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Steve Miller/GrampiesSo in other words - a lek a lick?
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5 years ago
Scott AndersonTo Steve Miller/GrampiesNope. 50 for the first lick, and the rest are free.
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5 years ago
Ron SuchanekThere's a pattern here...
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5 years ago
These guys were wonderful, as were another trio we passed a bit later.
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Saranda has a lovely waterfront promenade. It feels very Italian.
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I’m out of time now, and we’ll be back in Saranda in a few days for a longer look.  For now though, I’ll just say that it’s great to be here - not at all scary, and quite different.  The next two weeks should be amazing.

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Ride stats today, 22 miles, 1,500’; for the tour, 1,395 miles, 117, 100’

Today's ride: 22 miles (35 km)
Total: 1,351 miles (2,174 km)

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Andrea BrownAlbania looks great!
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5 years ago
Scott AndersonWe think so too, as long as we don’t burn up. It’s starting to get pretty warm here.
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5 years ago
Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Scott AndersonDon't forget to slip, slap, slop.
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5 years ago