May 7, 2018
Rained out in Rethymno
Last night
First, let’s go back to last night’s arrival in Rethymno, since we left off the journal there. Let’s start two great videos that Rachael offers up for our viewing pleasure. The first is the descent from Cape Drapano - nice because it shows the roadside maquis I forgot to mention yesterday, as well a better look at the uncertain skies. The next is of our entrance to Rethymno, featuring a group of club cyclists out on a training ride.
We checked into our bayside hotel about six. It’s a beautiful old place, a restoration of a Venetian building. There was some anxiety about our stay here, because they warned us several days ago that they had no capacity for bicycles but were sure something could work out. We were greeted by Krissa, an earnest, conscientious young woman who is apologetic but says they really can’t allow bikes in the rooms of their hotel. She agrees to call her manager though ideas, and let us know what they can come up with later. In the meantime, we lock our bikes together against the wall out front, check in to our room, shower, and go downstairs for dinner at the hotel’s fine restaurant.
We haven’t discussed finances yet on this tour, but for those that have been wondering I can report that you can travel quite inexpensively here. We aren’t budget travelers and not the best evidence for this, but as an example here is the receipt for our meal tonight, at a high quality restaurant in a prime location on the waterfront. For 40 euros, we had a meal of a large, shareable Caesar salad; lamb kleftico; chicken souvlaki; and a good bottle of wine. Nearly half the billl was for the wine, and a splurge; the house wine would have been half that. The net bill reflects a 10% discount as guests of the hotel.
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Back at the hotel, Krissa is pleased to let us know that they have two solutions for us - we can lock them in the hotel lobby, or there is a secured, locked storage space a few doors down the waterfront that we can use. We are happy to choose the latter option, and are escorted down there by our waiter.
Returning to the hotel, we enter into an extended conversation with Krissa, who proves to be engaging, bright and delightful. She is quite interested in our mode of travel, as well as our specific itinerary. She is happy to hear that we are going to some of her favorite places in Crete and the rest of Greece. She is also happy to hear how taken we are with Rethymno, which she thinks is the best city in Crete and one of the best in Greece as a whole.
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This morning
One look out the window, and it’s clear that our planned loop ride to Spili is cancelled. It’s pouring out, and is expected to continue most of the day. Over breakfast we discuss how to spend the day. Rachael has been having her own shifting issues with her bike, and wants to dad back to a bike shop we spotted on the way into town last night; and I want to explore the city. It’s a good opportunity to divide and conquer: she puts on her wet weather gear for the short ride back to the bike store, and I head out with the camera. We each have phones, and agree to get in touch later in the day.
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With Rachael off to visit the bike doctor, I keep my end of the bargain and head out to explore the town. There is plenty to see, even in the rain. Rethymno is a charming city, with its Venetian and Turkish roots showing through everywhere. I wander around randomly for an hour or so during a lull in the rains, and then when they return with a real vengeance I find shelter in a cafe and enjoy a second filtered coffee.
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A few hours later, we meet back at the hotel, both happy. A great morning - I had an excellent morning exploring the city, and she is delighted at the job that’s been done on her bike. A mild setback though - the key no longer works for the restaurant’s storage room, so her bike is locked out while mine is locked in. For the meantime we lock hers up outside the restaurant and rust that the hotel staff will figure it out.
This afternoon
Fortunately, the problem of the unopenable lock was soon resolved. There is a second door to the storeroom, around the corner and down the alley. We were trying to open the wrong door. We should have known that, because we were led there last night but didn’t really pay attention. We make a mental note that this is something we need to remember to be conscious about in the future.
We stepped out in mid afternoon to a changed world. Over the last how hours the storm front moved on to the west, leaving in ta way a beautiful clear day. We walk together through the old town, checking out possible dimmer venues and enjoying seeing the city in a brighter light. After a git we move uphill to Rethymno’s fortress and enjoy the next two hours wandering around and being astonished by one great viewpoint after another.
In the evening, at Rachael’s insistence, we go to La Boheme for dinner. She chose well -we share an excellent meal, one that Rachael thinks is the best of tour so far. All in all, a perfect rest day:we both feel revived, Rachael is happy with her bike, and we feel ready for the remaining challenging days in Crete.
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5 years ago
5 years ago
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5 years ago
Actually, I’d never thought about the copyright question. I can’t believe that we’ll get enough traffic for anyone to care.
Are you on the road again, Sam?
5 years ago
5 years ago
5 years ago
Your pal,
Ron a/k/a Sam.
5 years ago
Bob voyage!
5 years ago