Layover in Chora - North to the Balkans - CycleBlaze

May 18, 2018

Layover in Chora

Rest day!  We’re not sure what we’ll do with the day yet, but it will be pretty lazy.  It’s our last two night layover until we get to Meteora.

We’re resting, but I still managed to get out the door for a few minutes for a look at the sunrise.

Daybreak at Chora. If we do nothing else today, we’ll at least get over closer to the fortress and lighthouse.
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We walked down the waterfront looking for a breakfast spot, without success at first until we stopped in at Stella’s Rooms to see if their breakfast was open to the public.  It is, and we enjoyed a nice omelet and coffee while we talked over the day.  We’ve decided to take a walking tour of the town, followed by a short bike ride backtracking our ride into town, with a short walk into the base of the gorge we came down.  If there’s time and if the weather is encouraging when we get back, we’ll walk across the street and hop in the bay before dinner.

A walking tour of Chora

Be forewarned, this is your basic photo dump, embellished with the occasional caption.  And a pretty large photo dump at that, because there was so much to see.  I think I’ve found a new favorite Greek town.  I’ll make a special contribution to the website for storage space.

An impressive dovecote attached to the school, still in use. Note the occupants perched above.
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Palatiani Monastery crowns the old town.
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An entryway to Palatiani Monastery, with doves from the neighboring dovecote.
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The gateway to the old city
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Ron SuchanekNice shot!!
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5 years ago
Scott AndersonTo Ron SuchanekThis was such a great place. I’d love to come back here again.
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5 years ago
Here’s a surprise! We meet up with Lee, the French cyclist we chatted with yesterday on the west coast. He commented that the island is a bit hilly.
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The carfree old town is really beautiful, mixing Venetian and Ottoman influences. A fascinating place to wander.
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In the old town
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Cat and church, Chora
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Rachael beckoned me down to this small platform at the base of the rocks. Lots to see down here.
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Panagia Thallasini sits at the base of the rocks near the tip of Chora.
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Jen RahnLove how this photo captures the joyful curiosity of being on a bike tour!
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5 years ago
Scott AndersonTo Jen RahnI do too. I really like it that Rachael has found her camera after all these years. This was such a special little place, and unexpected. We thought we were just walking over to visit the town, not a marine aquarium.
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5 years ago
I don’t know what either of these is. Any marine biologists in the crowd?
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Shawn AndersonLooks like a Condylactis anemone. They are native to Greece and other sub-tropical climates.
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5 years ago
Scott AndersonTo Shawn AndersonHey! I’d given up on anyone identifying this. Thanks!

We’re almost done, and fly home a week from Friday. Should be an exciting last week - thunderstorms are predicted for every day until we depart.

Love to the girls. We’ll give a call when we get home.
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5 years ago
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Even this worn old bollard was photogenic. Looks like a work of art.
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The Church of Saint Barbara, near the tip of the old town.
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The Venetian castle, built along with a nearby now destroyed fort, was built in 1207 to help protect the town from Turkish invasion.
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I’m not sure, but I think this must be a sealed over window from the ruins of the fortress.
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The remains of the arched bridge leading to the Venetian castle presumably also date back to 1207. A braver sort than either of us might have scrambled over for a better view of the lighthouse.
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I imagine this is the same nervy swan we had at the restaurant last night. Here I’m minding my own business admiring the swans in the bay, and he tries to take my toe off.
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At the base of the arched bridge leading to the castle
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I saw a picture of the Tourlitis lighthouse on the ferry, and wondered where it was. I was delighted to see it out in the harbor when we biked in. It looks ancient, but it first began operation in 1897. It was the first automatic lighthouse in Greece.
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A small chapel on the next cape to the south of the old town. You can see this one also in a photo above, beneath the arched bridge.
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In the old town, Chora
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Hike to Apikia

We returned from our exploration of the town at about noon and settled down to lunch on the balcony of our hotel room, eating a delicious melon Rachael picked up at the supermarket this morning and cheese pies we picked up from the bakery.

Rachael picked up this fine looking melon at the market this morning, and brought along a kiwi to give a sense of scale.
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After lunch we rested for about an hour and set off on a hike.  We’re following hiking path #2, as it climbs steeply from the waterfront near our hotel.  We learned of this walk from the Andros Routes website.  We chose this instead of the one we were thinking of earlier because we didn’t feel like getting back on our bikes.  Andros has a well developed network of age old walking paths that are being restored and promoted in an effort to develop Andros as a significant hiking destination.

The walk was strenuous but delightful, climbing steeply above the coast for a few miles before dropping down to the nearby village of Apikia and then continuing on.  We contented ourselves with walking as far as the point where the path drops to the village and then turned back.  This was far enough - it’s a rest day after all, and a 1200’ climb in a five mile walk was enough to fill the afternoon and give us a different feel for the Andros interior.

The countryside is really quite beautiful, with its schist formations, the ancient walls and the vegetation all blending together harmoniously.  Surprisingly, one of the real highlights of the walk was the path itself, and the stone walls that border it.  The stones are so colorful and varied, almost like works of art, and we found ourselves stopping constantly to admire them.

It was also a rewarding walk too for its biologic diversity.  Plenty of interesting flowers, bugs, lizards and plants to hold you up if the knees need a break.  Especially interesting was the gall infested Aleppo oak.  I’ve seen oak galls before, but never spiky one’s like these.  The linked reference is interesting, describing the medicinal uses these have been put to.

Beginning the walk to Apakia. The path begins just back from the beach below town.
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We’re on well marked route 2. Very easy to follow, if you’re paying any attention at all.
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Pausing for a rest, looking back at Chora
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We found the stone walls continually fascinating. Like walking through an art gallery.
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So does anyone know what these soft looking plants are? They’re very colorful, the aged blue-grey deadwood contrasting with the new growth. We found this on the coast of Crete also.
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A cluster of white spotted rose beetles (Credit: Bill Shaneyfelt)
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Bill ShaneyfeltWhite spotted rose beetles. Took a bit of searching, but I'm fairly sure of it.

https://www.whatsthatbug.com/2011/03/27/white-spotted-rose-beetle/

----->Bill
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5 years ago
Scott AndersonI hoped this day might be of interest to you, Bill. Thanks!
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5 years ago
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On the way back we took the road, as a break for the knees. It was nearly as quiet, and gave us some amazing views. I’m not sure but I think this will be our route out of town in the morning.
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I was excited to get such a good shot of this Erhard’s Wall lizard. We’ve seen lizards all day, but this was the first poser. (Credit: Bill Shaneyfelt)
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Bill ShaneyfeltNot absolutely positive, but I think it is an Erhard's wall lizard.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Erhard%27s_wall_lizard

----->Bill
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5 years ago
Gall on an Aleppo Oak (Credit: Bill Shaneyfelt). The shrublike tree was covered with hundreds of them.
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Bill ShaneyfeltLooks like a gall on an oak tree produced by a small wasp.

Not positive, but it might be on an Aleppo oak. All of my internet searches are suspect... just so you know!

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quercus_infectoria

----->Bill
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5 years ago
I think this is the first time I’ve ever looked closely at a hibiscus blossom.
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