This was another work day, dedicated mainly to making distance as we circled the north end of the large bay that separates Messini from the Mani peninsula. The road north on the west side is generally flattish as it hugs the gulfline. Traffic picked up steadily as we progressed northward and into the large coastal sprawl around Kalamata.
Kalamata itself is not the most interesting of port towns - mostly industrial and busy - but it does lie in the midst of a vast extent of lemon and orange groves, with their brilliant green leaves and their fruit ripening in the late spring.
Working our way as best we could across Kalamata, we turned south again and almost immediately began climbing as we entered the high country below the Taigetos range that defines the peninsula. Toward the end of the day, we dropped into Kardamyli, our home for another two day stay.
On the layover day we enjoyed another great hike, this time up the rugged Viros Gorge that drops from the shoulder of Mount Taigetos to the sea just north of Kardamili. Hiking sometimes along footpaths, sometimes in the rocky streambeds, and sometimes bushwhacking a bit when we'd apparently lost the main route, we covered 13 miles, enjoyed some dramatic scenery, and were lucky enough to stumble across a few small unlocked chapels that allowed us a look into their frescoed interiors.
Both evenings, we ate on the patio of Lila's Tavern, overlooking the sea. One one of the nights we had an odd reprisal of our dinner in Giavola where we'd been entertained by a pack of frolicking dogs. This time, we were serenaded by five cats that took turns staking out their territory on the wall just feet from our table. It made a very entertaining backdrop to our meal.
A fruitstand in Kalamata. Kalamata, a busy port and agricultural city, sits at the top of the bay of Messenae, surrounded by orange and olive groves. Not the most scenic spot of the trip, but the fruit was delicious.
Hiking into Viros Gorge, a rugged ravine that climbs sharply up the west face of the Taigetos Range. This is great hiking country, littered with small villages, abandoned monasteries and spectacular vistas.
Exochori, one of the villages lining Viros Gorge. There's not much here for visitors, but after 10 rugged and hot miles we were rescued by an old lady who offered us cold water.
