May 24, 2012
The Mastic Villages
This was the shortest ride of the tour. Having plenty of time, we began the day with a walk along beautiful Mavras beach before setting off on the grueling 8 mile slog to Pirgi, the highlight of the day and perhaps of the entire tour.
Pirgi is the largest of the 'mastic villages' that Chios is reknowned for. These are fortified villages buit in the 1300's by the Genoese to support cultivation of mastic, a gum-like substance developed from tree sap. Pirgi itself is amazing and unique, and perhaps the biggest highlight of the entire tour for us. Many if not most of the walls of the village core are decorated in a beautiful geometric sgraffito. We walked through its streets with amazement at each corner we turned. We found the variety of color, pattern and overall effect to be almost overwhelming.
As if with all this Pirgi didn't have enough to its credit, it also claims to be the real birthplace of Christopher Columbus.
Beyond Pirgi, we stopped in next for a look at nearby Olympi, another of the mastic villages, before settling for the day at Mesta, yet another of these villages and the best preserved. Mesta is a small walled village, with most of the village within or a part of the walls. It's an interesting, almost gloomily claustrophobic place to wander through.
We ended the day with a hike, walking from Mesta to Olimpi and back. It was a pleasant walk, giving us a second look at Olimpi itself and a good look at the mastic trees still in cultivation. The real highlight though (low light, actually) was when we left the trail to walk up a small ridge for a close up look at a trio of ruined windmills. While working our way through the underbrush, my foot slipped into a concealed depression and I pitched forward, face planting myself into the brambled brush. Unable to move without making things worse, I lay sprawled there and wimpering until Rachael came to give a hand to help me back up. Yeowch!
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2 years ago
Based on average temperatures though, I think a tour in the islands would be OK if it’s not too busy. Lesvos, Chios, Naxos and Andros don’t see as much tourism and are all large enough for some serious cycling. I’d love to see any of them again, but especially Chios.
The other thing about the eastern islands though is the refugee situation. Lesvos has been overwhelmed for years by refugees crossing the waters from Turkey, so you’d want to check that out too before deciding on it. This is all new since we were there on this tour.
2 years ago
2 years ago
I’m sure you know we’ve been 3 times now, and our island visits are scattered across all 3 journals. Let me know if you get to a place where we can help you with planning.
2 years ago
Today's ride: 15 miles (24 km)
Total: 841 miles (1,353 km)
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