June 28, 2025
Learning about the driftless area
Day three: Madison to Wisconsin Dells
Every bike ride contains a geography lesson. When the ground is familiar, we may not notice the lesson, as we’ve already learned it. But when the route is new, you will learn something new.
When we left Madison this morning, we headed north into Wisconsin’s Driftless Region. During the last ice age, the glaciers that extended from the north down into the US transformed the landscape, grinding down hills and filling in valleys with the rock and sand they leave behind. But not here.
The arms of the glaciers reached around this part of Wisconsin but left it mostly untouched. As a result the landscape is dotted with hills and bluffs—most with steep inclines. Do you see where I’m going? Up and down hills all day.
Getting out of Madison was a challenge. The traffic and profusion of streets and paths around the university was confusing. Throw in a couple of road closures and a street that exists only on Google Maps for an added degree of difficulty.
Finally, we found ourselves standing atop a hill, surveying the farmland and with encouragement from a pair of passing cyclists changed our plans on the fly to take a direct route through the hills. It was worth it!
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We rode on quiet country roads up to a free ferry across Lake Wisconsin. On the far side, we found an ice cream shack. Lunch! Michelle chose a chocolate ice cream with caramel, sea salt, fudge ripple and roasted cashews. It was called “This S*&$@:! About To Get Serious.” It was an apt choice for what was to come next.
Five miles from the ferry, we entered Devil’s Lake State Park, which consists of the aforementioned lake surrounded by small mountains (or large hills). The park broke us. We had to walk two long climbs. After that, we struggled over the remaining 15 miles to Wisconsin Dells.
To close the day on an upbeat note, we ate dinner at one of Wisconsin’s premier supper clubs, the Del Bar. These clubs are a throwback to fine dining of the 1950s and 60s—classic cocktails, filet mignon, lobster tails and cheesecake. It was excellent!
Haiku of the Day
Glacial drumlin scrape
Scoop velvet cream fudge ripple
Undulating corn
— Michelle
Today's ride: 54 miles (87 km)
Total: 144 miles (232 km)
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