Day 7: Islamorada to Key Largo and Florida City: Where adventure inflames men to violent action

January 11, 2014

There has been a lot of interest in this blog so far, and I hope the story remains interesting. Hwy 1 was not much help on this today, though. The road goes right up the middle of Key Largo, and development on each side meant that though the island is very narrow, we did not actually see any water all day. What we did see was 30 strung out kilometers of tourist traps, fast food, boat repair, gas stations, and dozens of other small business categories. Through this all, Hwy 1 flows like a continuous river of traffic.

Sunrise over the Atlantic. This was the last we saw orf any water today on this little island.

This was our last chance to try one of the famous Key Lime products, and we went for a key lime ice cream on a stick. Like all of its family, it was sickly sweet, but ok. We did also find an actual Key lime tree, in a nursery. But when I asked the lady behind the counter why I have seen no plantations in the Keys, she had no idea. I am suspicious that the lime juice in the products may come from northern Florida or California. Has anybody seen an actual Key lime in the Keys?

This little beach house was for sale for 1.95 million.

Look Amelia, you can get your mermaid cleaned!

Colourful Mexican pottery at a tourist trap

We had read that though there is no recognition of Humphrey Bogart and Lauren Bacall in Key Largo, the boat from the original African Queen is here. We thought we had found it, sadly shuttling tourists in its old age. But in fact there was just the sign, and no evidence of the Queen.

In the end, no one was prompted to violent action, and any romance smouldering in the woman in the party was kept from killing anything. Sorry.

Construction and daleks in Key Largo gave us a hard time for a while

The famous Card sopund road recommended by ACA and not recommended by everyone else

At the top of Key Largo is the road to Florida City and Homestead. This heads through mangroves and then the beginning of the Everglades. It is dead straight for most of its length, and fenced on all sides to keep the crocodiles out. Yes, crocodiles. We headed out on the shoulder of this thing, which has no stopping spots or support of any kind. We did have enough water on board, but the temperature peaked at 37 degrees. The sun was from the left, and our left legs threatened to fry.

I have been sick all this week, coughing and coughing, and did not do well with the road conditions. Dodie was stronger, and kept asking if our speed was too fast. She made me drink and offered salty snacks. That is a big advantage of travelling as a pair - the riders can watch out for each other.

The beginning of the Everglades - the sea of grass - where a man can go and never be found.

Into Florida City we got honked at or cut off by one or two drivers. Gentle Steve was ready to pull one out of his car and pummel him. But, we did not catch up and anyway it only took a few seconds for me to remember that I don't do that kind of thing.

The Florida City municipal camping grounds are large, but very shabby. They seem to want $6 for the use of the broken down rickety shower facilities and $25 for a piece of grass. Since the office was closed, any willingness by us to cough up may be thwarted. We did pitch our tent in a garbage strewn "pavilion" near the play area. It has power, a roof, and lights, so actually this is suiting us just fine.

Tomorrow we will drag our reluctant selves over to Walmart and buy a super heavy Coleman gas burner and some super heavy Coleman gas canisters. When in Rome, do as the Romans do, I guess. Only thing, to really do it we would also need a 1965 Buick to carry the stove, or something!

Our hotel for tonight has most amenities

Today's ride: 76 km (47 miles)
Total: 234 km (145 miles)

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