To Nyons: Pas du Lauzens / Col de la Saussens

June 2, 2015

After 10 straight days of this, one would think we would quit being so surprised by how exceptional each day has been, but not so. Today was another unexpectedly fine riding day which amazed both of us. This was partly because our expectations were modest - we had viewed the two day ride from the Vercors to Nyons as a connector between more notable points on the itinerary and hadn't thought much about what we'd see here. In fact, the Drome is wonderful cycling country - sort of like a less touristy northern Provence.

First though, we had to get over being amazed at our B&B here in Crest, one of the more irksome lodgings we've stayed at. A fairly elegant personal residence, it offered a pleasant ambiance but the most meager morning meal I recall being offered - coffee, orange juice, and a few thin slices of sweetish bread. Annoyingly, it was also one of those places where the hostess felt compelled to sit at the table and stare at us while we toyed with our slices, even though we had very few words to share. It's the reverse of our reaction to the rides here, and probably another expectations thing. If it had been called a B&S (bed and snack), we would have known what we were getting in for.

Whatever. Other than that, it was another brilliant day. It was fairly short and easy by design, continuing our resting spell on the run up to Mount Ventoux. It began with the modest 1000' climb to Pas de Lauzun. Ho, hum - another quiet, beautiful road with more traffic from Bicycles than cars. To begin with we were mostly taken by the atmosphere - suddenly it feels like we have entered southern France. It is noticeably warmer - hot, actually, with today's high in the mid 80's. The roadsides and fields are spotted with brilliant red poppies, and we are starting to see lavendar fields just beginning to show up, tucked into folds in the hills. The bloom is still a few weeks away, but the tips are starting to show a bit of color. This already colorful region will be riotous in a few weeks.

At the summit we stopped to chat with a solo cyclist from Holland, on his own longish tour - he's on the back half of a two month ride home from Seville. We enjoyed exchanging notes about places we've both seen and loved, and then we told him we were going up Ventoux tomorrow. He said with amazement that he'd ridden along with a 66 year old cyclist the day before who had just crossed Ventoux, but then his face dropped when Rachael let out that I had two years on that youngster. 'What's your secret?', he wanted to know. I'm feeling pretty fortunate, alright.

It's still early in the lavendar season, but there's a bit of color showing in the tips.

From the summit we dropped through another dramatic bit of terrain, forcing us to stop frequently to break out the cameras or get off the bikes and look in all directions. After that we dropped down to the beautiful little village of Saou where we refreshed ourselves a bit at a cafe and eat our sandwiches before moving on - our few slices of bread this morning were just sufficient to carry us over this first pass. We really liked Saou - there's not a lot to it, but it looks like it would make a nice overnight stay.

On the descent from the pass - another remarkable stretch of road ahead.

Looks like they got the illustration about right. The panaboard informs us that this is the Saou syncline.

The town hall, Saou. I especially liked the separation of the boys school (on the right) and the girls school is off camera on the left. Makes you imagine the mayor as sort of a chaperon.

From Saou we began our second modest climb of the day, to Col de la Sausse, climbing almost imperceptibly for some miles before steepening a bit at the summit. More of the same - beautiful, poppy-strewn fields, beautiful woodlands and fields, beautiful everything really. Once over the top we dropped through the oddly named Trente Pas gorge (not thirty?) and from there enjoyed a swift descent to Nyons.

Here is a video clip from the days ride.

A last look back to the landscape around Saou.

A minor conquest, but we're taking credit wherever we can find it.

In the Trente Pas gorge, about 10 miles northeast of Nyons.

Nyons is a great little place to explore. A historic fortified town, it has a well preserved ancient quarter with a warren-like maze of narrow stone passageways and staircases leading to the highest ground around. On top is the old (13th century) Randonne Tower, a former prison that is now crowned by an airy, unique chapel. I don't recall seeing anything quite like it anywhere.

After having or fill of wandering around we went back to our hotel for dinner. The evening's conversation was dominated with talk of Ventoux. Let's look at that ride profile again. How much of it is in shade before we break out to the exposed, notoriously hot summit? And why is it forecast to be 90 degrees tomorrow, anyway?

Entering Nyons on its single span romanesque bridge, completed in 1407

The Bon Secours Chapel in Nyons. Built in 1862, it sits atop the Randonne Tower (from 1280) which was used as a prison until it's conversion to a chapel foundation.

The colorful interior of the Bon Secours Chapel.

Today's ride: 42 miles (68 km)
Total: 438 miles (705 km)

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