To Barcelonnette: Over Col d'Allos

June 10, 2015

We had another short day today - a haul up Col d'Allos and a drop down the other side to Barcelonnette in the Ubaye valley. This fit well with the forecast for the day - fair in the morning, turning to rain by early afternoon. Accordingly we hit the road fairly early, hoping to make it to town dry and maybe take in a hike at the summit if the weather looked good.

Anything can happen in the mountains of course, so it's actually not too bad that the weather site was only half right about the day. It was a split day alright, but the forecast was upside down - it rained a bit in the morning, but conditions improved about midday and kept getting better. By day's end it was quite lovely, with mountains glowing in the late day sun in all directions.

The rain began about 7 miles into the ride at Allos, while we were circling the village looking for the public WC. There wasn't much to it yet, but as long as we were stopped anyway we stood around under an awning for awhile, trying to decide if it was serious or a passing thing. After a few minutes though we decided we'd better get started and broke out the raincoats. Very sad - we had such a terrific dry-riding average going, with only 3 miles of rain in over 700 miles and none for the last two weeks. I hate breaking a streak!

It didn't actually amount to much though - I just like to whine a bit. It rained lightly for another few miles and then backed off to a light mist that stopped by the time we reached the summit. By the end it was so light that it was hard to know how to credit the conditions - I'll average it out and call it six miles of riding while wet today. Not bad, but definitely a hit on the stats.

As far as the ride itself goes - not actually so great until we got to the ski resort at La Foux. The road carried a bit more traffic than we expected, including the occasional large, empty gravel hauler. Not bad, but enough to keep our attention on it. I think if we came this way again we'd try the route up the headwaters of the Var and over Col de Cayolle instead - it's allegedly a gorgeous ride. All to the truck traffic stopped at the ski resort though - I suppose there's a quarry back in there somewhere - and the road narrowed considerably and started climbing.

The remaining few miles to the summit are increasingly dramatic as the road executes a neat zigzag stitch up the side of the valley and views broaden with every bend. By the time we top out, the ski resort is far below us, about 1300' lower in the valley. Still though, heavier traffic than we'd expected continued, consisting mostly of small campers. It's not that there were a lot of them, but zero is really a better number on a steep, exposed, narrow road with a lot of switchbacks. A bit surprising, really.

We got a probable explanation for the traffic at the summit while chatting with Barry, a friendly Brit from Cheshire with a great grin. He informed us that the Criterium du Dauphine (one of the important professional races in the run up to the Tour de France) passes this way tomorrow, and this time tomorrow the pass will be jammed with racers and spectators. The campers are likely primarily racing fans arriving to set up camp somewhere.

From the top, it's a great, fast coast down to the outskirts of Barcelonnette (here's a video). We arrived in time for a late lunch, loafed around at the hotel for a bit, did a bit of shopping, and then enjoyed a great pizza/pasta feast at l'Abri, a restaurant we enjoyed enough that we could land there again tomorrow night.

Tomorrow's weather looks to be perfect - sunny and mild all day. We've had a few short days in a row and are well rested and carbed up, so we're going to push ourselves a bit and aim for Cime de la Bonette, one of the highest roads in Europe. The pass just opened last weekend, so it should be fantastic.

Leaving Villars-Colmars, bearing north toward Allos.

The start of the climb to Col d'Allos. Not much of a grade at this point, but it gets better.

Leaving the village of Allos we encountered our first rain on the road in two weeks. At this point we can't tell if we'll see anything at the summit but we'll be happy if we just don't get soaked.

Looking down at the ski resort (way down there at the bottom - that closer cluster is at the top of the highest ski lift) from the zigzag climb to Col d'Allos.

Barry from Cheshire, at the summit Of Col d'Allos.

Rachael walking to a higher viewpoint, Col d'Allos.

Looking north from central Barcelonnette.

Looking south from central Barcelonnette.

At the spring fashion show, Barcelonnette.

Preparing for a carboload before the big climb tomorrow to Cime de la Bonette.

Today's ride: 30 miles (48 km)
Total: 806 miles (1,297 km)

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