Icelandair's web site contradicts itself as to whether a COVID test is necessary for passengers who have connecting flights through Reykjavik. I briefly considered calling them for clarification, then realized it would be just as easy (and probably just as quick) for us to just go get tested. If it turns out we don't need it, no harm done. In fact, it feels like a smart thing to do.

We have had no luck obtaining a pass sanitaire yet. We submitted our dossiers via email on August 17, but never received a response. A few days ago, the government launched an online portal. We resubmitted on August 30 using that service. At least now we have accounts that we can check to see if anyone has reviewed the requests. Reports are that they are swamped, and that responses have been spotty. Some people get their pass right away, and others don't get them at all. I'm expecting that we'll hear from them within a couple days of our arrival. That'll be fine. In Paris we can just show our CDC cards. Out in the boonies, it may be a little more difficult.

I've boxed the bikes. My wife's is so easy, and mine is such a pain in the ass. I wondered if I should use a third box just for my wheels. Eventually, I managed to get everything smashed in there. One side of each axle (skewers removed) is poking through the inside of the box, but as long as it doesn't break through to the exterior, I think it's a blessing. It'll keep the wheels in place exactly where I want them to be. There's some bubble wrap strewn about each tender part of the bike, and those plastic fork protectors, as symbolic offerings to the gods of prevention.

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I'm trying to come up with a clever way to see Versailles without slowing us down too much. The current plan is to set up camp, go for a ride wherever we can around the town, return early the next morning for the gardens and the palace, break camp before noon, and hit the road again. There's a part of me that wants to bask in the luxury of what's sure to be an uncrowded day at the palace, and another part that just wants to get the hell out of Paris metro and start this tour spinning along at a respectable pace.

Since our last published tour a little over a year ago, we have picked up a couple of new toys -- er, tools -- that I'm certain will make our tour more enjoyable. First is a pair of radio helmets. These are the Sena R1 models. This coincided with a need to replace our old helmets. I think mine was about 10 years old when I retired it. I bought replacement pads for it a while back so it doesn't feel that ratty, but Big Helmet says you should buy a new one every 5 years, so... I dunno. I guessed that a decent "smart" helmet might run about $200, which is too rich for my blood, but at $130, it felt like a pretty good deal.

The thought of having yet two more devices to charge made me hesitate. I've got to tell you, though, for a couple who ride together a lot, these things are the cat's pajamas. For one thing, I enjoy being able to talk to my wife so much that I now have no problem riding at her pace, so as never to fall out of speaking range. It's easier for the person in front to warn their riding partner of obstacles. As navigator, I can explain in detail what to expect on the road ahead every step of the way, or to seek her opinion when we have to make choices on the fly. We're never going to be able to return to the days of helplessly yelling "WHAT DID YOU SAY?!?!" at one another as we curse the traffic or the wind or the distance or whatever is making it impossible for us to communicate. I have no nostalgia for that whole mess.  

Second is a solar charger for the rest of our gadgets. The plan is for Sunyoung to lash it across her panniers (she sports rear bags only), attach a power bank, and pray for sun. We bought an extra power bank with the idea that we can charge devices with one while the other is connected to the solar panels. It's probably overkill. We have finally crossed the Rubicon of technology, leaving paper maps and disposable batteries as the stuff of old-timers' tales, and now that we're here, it'll be worth the extra weight to no longer fret over conserving power so much. I will be able to keep my phone's screen on and the brightness cranked up as we wend our way through unfamiliar towns.