Days 1, 2: Trang - Lam Thap - Ao Nang Beach - Frankie goes to.....Thailand´s Islands - CycleBlaze

February 18, 2022 to February 19, 2022

Days 1, 2: Trang - Lam Thap - Ao Nang Beach

Finally that almost stationary low-pressure front has moved through. The masses of rain took the unpleasant humidity and heat out of the air but I certainly didn't want to ride my bike through the regular, heavy downpours. Despite the 4-day delay I decided to go "cross-country" instead of the direct route along Highway 4. All the same - the very South is plantation land which can still make for a nice day on the bike but I guess you have seen enough photos of rubber and palmoil trees so I put those first two days into just this one page. This post will really be all about ferries, islands and beaches.

Day 1 - Trang to Lam Thap (103 + 20 km)

It would have been already a fairly big day with 100+ kilometers and I don´t normally plan on that anymore. But after the rain-delay I was not only eager to get going but when I roll along plesant side roads with little traffic and many twists and turns I could still sit in the saddle all day long. And so I did. But it wasn´t really my choice that made it such a a huge day. 

I really adore google maps in any regard but today it really let me down. About 40 km short of Lam Thap the system told me to enter a side road which did look very promising indeed. And started well on nice asphalt. Then it became a metal road. And then mud. Thick, red horrible mud, almost like clay. There was no other option then turning round and going back to the "main" road. Backtracking is really the worst case scenario to me. In particular when the bike has become filthy for no reason at all.

I was really knackered when I got into Lam Thap and it didn´t bother me at all that neither the overpriced Tillthong Garden Hotel (600 Baht for a pretty worn out establishment) nor the little town itself are more worth than this one sentence. Just a noodle soup and off to bed.

Day 2: Lam Thap - Ao Nang Beach (78 km)

Much, much better day! I had recovered surprisingly well and despite the searing heat (38 C) I enjoyed the ride. That´s of course only until I couldn´t avoid getting onto the very busy and dusty Highway 4 but once you are past the Krabi City turnoff and follow the signs for Ao Nang Beach it improves again.

I have been to Ao Nang many times and usually don´t bother booking ahead, in particular not during those quiet Covid days. But this weekend there was a big event in town: The Thailand Triathlon, a 2-day running, kayaking and cycling competition. So I consulted Agoda and booked a room at the Krabi Forest Homestay for just 400 Baht. For that money I didn´t expect much at all along one of Thailand´s most popular mainland beaches and was most pleasantly surprised to be given one of the nicest bungalows I have stayed in. Fully equipped with aircon, fridge and kettle and a most charming bathroom and terrace. Very nice indeed! And the first beach of this trip.

When my cycling world was still in order despite the rather monotonuous vegetation.
Heart 5 Comment 0
The limestone rocks start popping up when you approach the Andaman side.
Heart 6 Comment 0
I am a keen fisherman myself but sitting in the middle of a palm oil plantation catching fish out of a pond that you put in there yourself is not my cup of tea
Heart 2 Comment 0
And it got worse further down the track. Withdrawal was my only option.
Heart 5 Comment 1
Ao Nang beachfront
Heart 3 Comment 0
Different to a few weeks ago all beachfront shops are open again but despite the reopening of the border there are very few tourists around.
Heart 3 Comment 0
My bungalow is the second one. Loved it!
Heart 4 Comment 0
Ao Nang Beach in the late afternoon...
Heart 6 Comment 0
....at sunset...
Heart 5 Comment 0
...and at the amazing twilight scenario.
Heart 5 Comment 2
Scott AndersonThat is amazing. Bruce and Andrea keep insisting we should go to Thailand one of these years. We may have to reconsider.
Reply to this comment
9 months ago
Frank RoettgenTo Scott AndersonI can only urge you to listen to Andrea and Bruce, Scott. They know the country very well and there are so many options for a fantastic cycling holiday. In the mountains, along the sea, on various islands....And very soon the country will be open without any Covid restrictions, good time to come here I suppose.
Reply to this comment
9 months ago
Heart 0 Comment 0
A bit larger scale so you can see the first four islands on my list: Ko Yao Yai and Noi, Ko Sriboya and Ko Jum aka Ko Pu.
Heart 0 Comment 0

Today's ride: 201 km (125 miles)
Total: 201 km (125 miles)

Rate this entry's writing Heart 6
Comment on this entry Comment 2
Andrew FatseasAre you sure Bob wasn’t navigating for you?
Reply to this comment
9 months ago
Frank RoettgenTo Andrew FatseasHa, exactly my thoughts Andrew. I thought he may have uploaded this route suggestion - I don´t know anybody else who would possibly enjoy it.
Reply to this comment
9 months ago