Day 8: Sawi - Had Lamae - Frankie goes to.....the Gulf of Thailand (2022)

January 15, 2022

Day 8: Sawi - Had Lamae

Unfortunately that nasty East-Southeasterly continued and dominated my whole day on the road. I really don´t mind some decent exercise otherwise I wouldn´t be travelling by bicycle. But you can´t help feeling some frustration when you know the regular weather pattern should be rather helping you down that coast and - probably even more important - reward your day of cycling with a nice swim at your destination. Instead I am struggling to even roll along most flat sections and find these great beaches rough with muggy water and littered with driftwood and rubbish.

I made my way down back to the coast this morning along the #4198 unsure where to stay tonight. Plenty of resorts all along the coast down to Surat Thani. One option would have been Paknam Lang Suan where I stayed before but all the resorts on the northern end of the bay looked almost deserted and the little town itself never appealed to me anyway. They have now built even more concrete retaining walls along that large waterfront park and I knew straight away it would just be a quick look at the weekend market and then off again.

I think my rising frustration didn´t allow for a neutral judgement anymore but all the road extensions and related clear-cuts south of Paknam Lang Suan did not only kill the charme of this formerly attractive rural ride but encouraged the motorized traffic to travel at high speed. But, as always in life, the first and the last impressions count. And that unpleasant ride along a wide new road with palmoil plantations and shrimp farms changed back to "old" a few kilometers before I arrived at my destination and quickly lifted my spirits again.

So did my favourite bungalow resort in this area, Sonsai Resort at Lamae Beach, which still lived very much up to my expectations. The wooden bungalows are not really cheap at 700 and 800 Baht but the owner recognized me from one of my previous visits and instantly came down to 600. There are two decent restaurants in walking distance too. One of these buffet places right next door and a normal seafood-on-the-beach one just 100 m further up the road, next to the Had Lamae Resort. Decent end to not the most enjoyable day of cycling.

I started off along the narrow track right in front of the resort and parts of it were unsealed. That nasty fine red dust usually quickly clogs up your chain but due to the Rohloff hub I can shelter the always straight chain with the Hebie Chainglider. That "swimming" plastic construction keeps the dust almost entirely off the chain. Almost as good as a belt drive when it comes to maintenance.

The little "chok dee" (good luck) houses get bashed and deposited along particular sections when good luck has run out....

The day started off so well with just me....

But as soon as that wind picked up again....You can see all the litter and the rough sea in the background

Fortunately the food in Thailand never seems to let me down! My lunch was one of the very standard meals that you will get in any restaurant that operates a wok. Pad khrapao (fried holy basil), here in the moo/khung (pork/shrimp) version

Paknam means rivermouth. While leaving Paknam Lang Suan you do cross the river which I assume is called Lang Suan

Probably a bit over the top but I still love the abundance of colour at the Wat Bonphot Phisai

Fortunately the last few kilometers before Had Lamae are still as good as I had it in mind. Always helps when the last hour is most enjoyable!

Phla mhgg yang (grilled squid) and pak kanaa nahm anhoi ( Chinese kale in oyster sauce). Never get tired of it! 220 Baht or 6 €.

Today's ride: 69 km (43 miles)
Total: 539 km (335 miles)

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